Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire CountryMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; France -- Description and travel
In Gien's main street there are a multitude of rare mellowed old houses
with sculptured fronts and high gables. This street twists and turns
until it reaches the old stone and brick château, with its harmoniously
coloured walls, making a veritable symphony of colour. Each turn in this
old high-street of Gien gives a new vista of mediævalism quite
surprising and eerielike, as fantastic as the weird pictures of Doré.
Gien and its neighbour Briare are chiefly noted commercially for their
pottery. Gien makes crockery ware, and Briare inundates the entire world
with those little porcelain buttons which one buys in every land.
Crossing the Sologne and entering Berry from the capital of the
Orléannais, or coming out from Tours by the valley of the Cher, one
comes upon the little visited and out-of-the-way château of Valençay, in
the charming dainty valley of the Nahon.
There is some reason for its comparative neglect by the tourist, for it
is on a cross-country railway line which demands quite a full day of
one's time to get there from Tours and get away again to the next centre
of attraction, and if one comes by the way of the Orléannais, he must be
prepared to give at least three days to the surrounding region.
This is the gateway to George Sand's country, but few English-speaking
tourists ever get here, so it may be safely called unknown.
It is marvellous how France abounds in these little corners all but
unknown to strangers, even though they lie not far off the beaten track.
The spirit of exploration and travel in unknown parts, except the Arctic
regions, Thibet, and the Australian desert, seems to be dying out.
The château of Valençay was formerly inhabited by Talleyrand, after he
had quitted the bishopric of Autun for politics. It is seated proudly
upon a vast terrace overlooking one of the most charming bits of the
valley of the Nahon, and is of a thoroughly typical Renaissance type,
built by the great Philibert Delorme for Jacques d'Étampes in 1540, and
only acquired by the minister of Napoleon and Louis XVIII. in 1805.
The architect, in spite of the imposing situation, is not seen at his
best here, for in no way does it compare with his masterwork at Anet, or
the Tuileries. The expert recognizes also the hands of two other
architects, one of the Blaisois and the other of Anjou, who in some
measure transformed the edifice in the reign of François I.
The enormous donjon,--if it is a donjon,--with its great, round corner
tower with a dome above, which looks like nothing so much as an
observatory, is perhaps the outgrowth of an earlier accessory, but on
the whole the edifice is fully typical of the Renaissance.
The court unites the two widely different terminations in a fashion more
or less approaching symmetry, but it is only as a whole that the effect
is highly pleasing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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