Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire CountryMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; France -- Description and travel
Before the time of the dwelling built by Bohier for himself and family
on the foundations of the old mill, there was yet a manorhouse
belonging to the ancient family of Marques, from whom the Norman
financier bought the site. The tower, seen to-day at the right of the
entrance to the château proper,--an expressive relic of feudal
times,--was a part of the earlier establishment. To-day it is turned
into a sort of _kiosque_ for the sale of photographs, post-cards, and an
admirable illustrated guide to the château.
The interior of the château to-day presents the following remarkable
features: The dining-room of to-day, formerly the Salle des Gardes, has
a ceiling in which the cipher of Catherine de Medici is interwoven with
an arabesque. To the left of this apartment is the entrance to the
chapel, which to-day seems a bit incongruously placed, leading as it
does from the dining-room. It is but a tiny chapel, but it is as gay and
brilliant as if it were still the adjunct of a luxury-loving court, and
it has some glass dating from 1521, which, if not remarkable for design
or colouring, is quite choice enough to rank as an art treasure of real
value.
According to Viollet-le-Duc each feudal seigneur had attached to his
château a chapel, often served by a private chaplain, and in some
instances by an entire chapter of prelates. These chapels were not
simple oratories surrounded by the domestic apartments, but were
architectural monuments in themselves, and either entirely isolated, as
at Amboise, or semi-detached, as at Chenonceaux.
Below, in the sub-basement, at Chenonceaux, are the original foundations
upon which Bohier laid his first stones. Here, too, are various
chambers, known respectively as the prison, the Bains de la Reine, the
_boulangerie_, etc.
Chenonceaux to-day is no whited sepulchre. It is a real living and
livable thing, and, moreover, when one visits it, he observes that the
family burn great logs in their fireplaces, have luxurious bouquets of
flowers on their dining-table, and use great wax candles instead of the
more prosaic oil-lamps, or worse--acetylene gas. Chenonceaux evidently
has no thoughts of descending to steam heat and electricity.
All this is as it should be, for when one visits a shrine like this he
prefers to find it with as much as possible of the old-time atmosphere
remaining. Chambord is bare and suggestive of the tomb, in spite of the
splendour of its outline and proportions; Pierrefonds, in the north, is
more so, and so would be Blois except for its restored or imitation
decorations; but here at Chenonceaux all is different, and breathes the
spirit of other days as well as that of to-day. It is, perhaps, not
exactly as Diane left it, or as Rousseau knew it under the régime of the
Dupins, since, after many changings of hands, it became the property of
the _Crédit Foncier_, by whom it was sold in 1891 to Mr. Terry, an
American.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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