Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire CountryMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and the Loire Country
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; France -- Description and travel
Like the historic "prisoner of Gisors," the occupants of the dungeons at
Loches whiled away their lonely hours by inscribing their sentiments
upon the walls. Only one remains to-day, though fragmentary stone-carved
letters and characters are to be seen here and there. He who wrote the
following was certainly as cheerful as circumstances would allow:
"Malgré les ennuis d'une longue souffrance,
Et le cruel destin dont je subis la loy,
Il est encort des biens pour moy,
Le tendre amour et la douce espérance."
Most of these formidable dungeons of Loches were prisons of state until
well into the sixteenth century.
[Illustration: _Sketch Plan of Loches_]
Beneath, or rather beside, the very walls of the château is the bizarre
collegiate church of St. Ours. One says bizarre, simply because it is
curious, and not because it is unchurchly in any sense of the word, for
it is not. Its low nave is surmounted by an enormous tower with a stone
spire, while there are two other pyramidal erections over the roof of
the choir which make the whole look, not like an elephant, as a cynical
Frenchman once wrote, but rather like a camel with two humps. This
strange architectural anomaly is, in parts, almost pagan; certainly its
font, a fragment of an ancient altar on which once burned a sacred fire,
_is_ pagan.
[Illustration: _St. Ours, Loches_]
There is a Romanesque porch of vast dimensions which is the real
artistic expression of the fabric, dressed with extraordinary primitive
sculptures of saints, demons, stryges, gnomes, and all manner of outré
things. All these details, however, are chiselled with a masterly
conception.
Behind this exterior vestibule the first bays of the nave form another,
a sort of an inner vestibule, which carries out still further the unique
arrangement of the whole edifice. This portion of the structure dates
from a consecration of the year 965, which therefore classes it as of
very early date,--indeed, few are earlier. Most of the church, however,
is of the twelfth century, including another great pyramid which rises
above the nave and the two smaller ones just behind the spire. The
side-aisles of the nave were added between the twelfth and fifteenth
centuries, while only the stalls and the tabernacle are as recent as the
sixteenth. The eastern end is triapsed, an unusual feature in France.
From this one realizes, quite to the fullest extent possible, the
antiquity and individuality of the Église de St. Ours at Loches.
The quaint Renaissance Hôtel-de-Ville was built by the architect Jean
Beaudoin (1535-1543), from sums raised, under letters patent from
François I., by certain _octroi_ taxes. From the fact that through its
lower story passes one of the old city entrances, it has come to be
known also as the Porte Picoys. In every way it is a worthy example of
Renaissance civic architecture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account