Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
remained before the town for some time before news came of the advance
of Geoffrey himself; and when the Count at last arrived, he sent word of
his readiness to give battle. But when the morning broke upon the Norman
host, drawn up before the fortress all expectant of a battle with the
Angevins, lo! no enemy was to be seen. Geoffrey, whose surname of Hammer
by no means maligned his prudence, had thought better of the scheme in
the night, and retired with all his men. The Norman writers, of course,
set this down to cowardice. But one would like to hear the other side of
the story. “Here, and throughout the war, the lions stand in need of a
painter, or rather their painters suddenly refuse to do their duty. We
have no Angevin account of the siege of Domfront to set against our
evidently highly coloured Norman picture.”
“The French yearning to make everything new” has done its work in
Angers, but though Fulk, Geoffrey, René, and the rest would be at a loss
to recognise their old capital in the trim modern town, enough remains
to show us what has been. No city standing as Angers does on rising
ground above a wide river, with a mass of castle bastions sloping up the
hill, could fail to have made history in its day. The modern town may be
disposed of in a few words--it is clean and full of life, and
altogether very far removed from the “black Angers” known to our
ancestors. This mediæval and grim-sounding title, reminiscent of
dungeons and tyrant princes, probably either meant that the ancient town
was closely and squalidly built, or else referred to the dark slate with
which the country abounds, and which might well have been used for
building purposes all over the town, as we still see it in some houses
by the river.
The attractive side of Angers is that facing the water, and the river is
quite worthy of the town on its banks, though Mr. Henry James does
censure the “perversity in a town lying near a great river, and yet not
upon it.” It is true that Angers has not got as far as the Loire; but it
has what is next best, a tributary of the great river--a wide placid
flow, which makes no mean show here, spanned as it is by three fine
bridges. Looking upstream from the lowest bridge one sees the old and
the new together; the clean well-to-do water-front, pleasant boulevards,
and a bright little quay with every house the pattern of its neighbour;
and above this the black mass of the castle, whose solid hugeness makes
the crowning towers of Saint Maurice look as if they were cut out of
paper, so delicately and sharply defined are they against the sky. Down
river there is a long and sunny path, broad green meadows and a stretch
of country beyond, and little fishing boats dotted about on the water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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