Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
Considering that the Duc de Vendôme has always been a title of some
importance in France since the early part of the sixteenth century, and
the Comtes de Vendôme a power in the feudal world before that, one
might feel rather surprised not to find the town itself presenting a
more imposing aspect. Vendôme is a picturesque place, but it is more of
a long straggling village than anything else, and it is only the ivied
ruins on the cliff that take one back--with a stretch of imagination, it
must be confessed--to the days of feudalism. Vendôme was originally, it
is thought, a Gallic township under the name of Vindocinum; it was then
fortified by the Romans, evangelised by Saint Bienheuré, and finally
became the seat of a feudal count about the end of the tenth century. In
1030 was founded the abbey of La Trinité, whose church is one of the
first “monuments” of Vendôme. It dates from the thirteenth and fifteenth
centuries; the beautiful Transition façade is well worth notice, and so
is the belfry tower, separated from the church and tapering up to a tall
stone spire. Inside the church there are some fine choir stalls of the
fifteenth century, of which the carving of the _miséricordes_ is very
interesting in its variety and quaintness of design.
The Loire at Vendôme divides into several small streams, and in walking
through the town one appears continually to be crossing a succession of
bridges and coming upon fresh pictures of clear green water fringed by
low-roofed houses and dark _lavoirs_ with their curtains of snowy linen.
Outside the town the river winds smoothly away past the cool quiet of
the public gardens, to join its tributaries and cut its silver channels
through the distant water-meadows.
“The route lay along the plateau until the heights were reached which
enclose the valley of the Loir; the road winds down to the river beside
hanging woods, red with autumn leaves not yet fallen, and crowned with a
ridge of firs. A corner is turned and Vendôme comes in sight, lying
beneath the shelter of the old ruined castle on the hill. As the
horsemen enter the town the people all come to the doors of their houses
and gaze with every sign of interested curiosity. There is an anxious
expression in their faces. They do not welcome, though they obey their
visitors with alacrity. They bring forth bread and meat and wine, and
lay the tables for breakfast, but good cheer they have none to
give.”--_The Times_: “Prussian Occupation of Vendôme.”
Chapter Twelve
ORLÉANS, BOURGES, AND NEVERS
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