Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
At Périgueux we seem to have left Northern France in the far distance
and to have taken the first definite step into the Midi. The
architectural pilgrim as he wanders southward is conscious of the
existence of two distinct styles, possessing features dissimilar in
construction and design; in one case he finds barrel-vaulted churches,
in another large churches roofed with pointed domes, whose origin it is
difficult to determine. Of the latter type the church of Saint Front is
a notable instance. It rises above the old quarter, which occupies the
centre of the town, the modern portion, quite distinct from the rest, as
was the case at Limoges, sloping up the hill, and the remnant of the old
Roman city fronting the river. The original Vesunna of the Petrocorii
stood on the left bank of the Isle; the Roman Vesunna crossed to the
other side, and is now represented by the ruins of an amphitheatre,
dating from the third century, and some second-century baths. The old
Château Barrière is also built on Roman fortifications, and two of the
Roman towers still remain, besides the “Tour de Vésone,” which was
probably part of a pagan temple.
[Illustration: PÉRIGUEUX FROM THE RIVER]
It is a curious fact that here the ancient remains of the Roman city
should be so much more prominent than is usually the case. At Bourges we
saw the house of Jacques Cœur built upon a Roman foundation, and many
other places keep, in part at least, their Roman walls; but Périgueux
has Roman remains which absorb quite half the interest aroused by the
city on the Isle--the other half being devoted to the church. From the
site of the Gallic Vesunna, on the left side of the river, the Tour de
Vésone is the foremost object, so old that, as Freeman says, it looks
almost modern. “It is a singular fact that, while a mediæval building
can scarcely ever be taken for anything modern, buildings of earlier
date often may. The primeval walls of Alatri might at a little distance
be taken for a modern prison, and this huge round, it must be confessed,
has to some not undiscerning eyes suggested the thought of a modern
gasworks.” Then the partly mediæval Château Barrière attracts notice,
dating at its latest from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and by
its name recalling one of the noblest families of mediæval Périgord.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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