We furtively admired the finely-carved stalls, the grand _retablo_ over the High Altar with its terribly life-like crucifix, all the time with a feeling on my part of that vigilant eye boring a hole in my back like a gimlet. We next examined the alabaster tomb the masterpiece of Gil de Siloe, executed to the order of Isabella the Catholic, which stands in front of the altar. Juan II. and his wife Isabella of Portugal lie side by side clothed in their robes of state. At his feet are two Lions, at hers a Lion and a Dog. I forgot the solitary monk and the gimlet stopped its work as I became lost in admiration while following the intricacies of Gil de Siloe's greatest production. At the eight corners of this magnificent tomb, most undoubtedly the finest I have ever seen, and by some considered unsurpassed in Europe, sixteen lions support the royal arms, above them along the cornice beautiful little statuettes stand under canopies which are a marvel of delicate tracery. The embroidery on the robes of the royal pair is exquisite and the imitation of the lace work unsurpassed. For a long time we stood discussing and admiring the marvellous cleverness of the designer of a monument which is worthy of the great and pious woman who erected it to the memory of her parents. Hard by in the west wall of the church is the tomb of the Infante Alfonso, whose death at the early age of sixteen left the accession vacant for Isabella and so changed the history of Castile. It is likewise a wonderful piece of work by the same skilful hand. The young Prince kneels alone in an attitude of prayer which gains dignity from the half-shadow thrown by the recess in which the monument is placed. The arch above is decorated with a twining vine, while men-at-arms support the tomb. We turned from the contemplation of these two memorials and the monotone of the old monk's prayer filled the church. I think we both shared a feeling of relief when we found ourselves once more outside under the grey sky, though I shall ever remember the impression of that aisleless church with its magnificent tombs, that white robed monk with his droning voice, the chill of the autumn air and those long lines of stately poplars under which I passed in my last pilgrimage in Spain. INDEX Abderrhaman, mosque of, 80 Adrian IV., Pope, 81 Albornoz, Cardinal, tomb of, 111 Alfonso VI., 234, 235 Alfonso VIII., 245 Alfonso de Cartagena, Bishop, 240 Alfonso el Catolico, 197; coffin of, 220 Alfonso the Chaste, 218, 220 Alfonso the Learned, sarcophagus of, 10 Alfonso de los Rios, 238 Alhambra, 31, 46, _sqq._ Court of Lions, 50 Almakkari, historian, 23 Almanzor, 200 Alva Garcia, 138 Alvaro de Luna, 232 Antequerra, 48 Arabic documents, 230 Aragon, union of, with Castile, 67 Arfe, silver monstrance by, 142 Arfe, Juan de, 228 Arlanzón, river, 233 Astorga, 193-198 Cathedral, 193, _sqq._ Historical sketch, 197 Augustus, Emperor, 84 Averroes, 30