Charles Carleton Coffin: War Correspondent, Traveller, Author, and StatesmanGriffis, William Elliot
History
Charles Carleton Coffin: War Correspondent, Traveller, Author, and Statesman
Griffis, William Elliot
Coffin, Charles Carleton, 1823-1896
Arrival at Piraeus was at 2 A. M. The party of passengers descended the
ladder into a boat, and there sat shivering in their shawls, where
they were likely to be left to historic meditation until the
custom-house opened, except for the well-known fact that silver often
conquers steel. One franc, held up before the gaze of a highly
important personage possessed of a sword and much atmosphere of
authority, secured smiles and welcome to the sacred soil of Greece,
immunity from search, and direction to a cafe where all was warm and
comfortable, and from which, in due time, hotel accommodations were
secured.
In the city of Pericles, they saw the play of "Antigone" in the
theatre of Herod Atticus. On visiting the Parthenon, with its
marvellous sculpture, which Turkish soldiers had so often used as a
target, they found that the chief inhabitants of the ruin were crows.
They met the missionaries who were influential in the making of the
new Grecian nation. From Athens they went to Constantinople, where Dr.
Cyrus Hamlin, in Robert College, was lighting the beacon of hope for
the Christians in the Turkish empire.
Leaving Europe at that end of it on which the Turks have encamped
during four centuries, and where they are still blasting and
devouring, Carleton visited Africa, the old house of bondage. At
Alexandria his first greeting was a cry for bakshish. Within half an
hour after landing, most of his childhood's illusions were dispelled.
A drenching rain fell. The delta of the Nile had been turned into one
vast cotton field which looked like a mass of snow. The clover was in
bloom along the railway to Cairo. In this land of the donkey and of
the Arabian Nights Entertainments, he received several practical
lessons in the art of comparative swindling, soon learning that in
roguery both Christians and the followers of the prophet are one.
In studying his Bible amid the lands which are its best commentary,
Carleton concluded that the crossing of the Red Sea by the fugitive
slaves from Egypt, over an "underground railway made by the order of
God himself," "instead of being in the domain of the miraculous, is
under natural law." At Suez, one of the half-way houses of the world,
he was amused at the jollity of the Mohammedans, who had just broken
their long lenten fast from tobacco and smoke, and who were very happy
in their own way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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