Chateau and Country Life in FranceWaddington, Mary King
General
Chateau and Country Life in France
Waddington, Mary King
France -- Social life and customs
However, we shall fill our own house, and give breakfast and dinner to
any one who will come. To-day we have been wandering about on the green
near the ruins, trying to find some place where we can give our friends
tea. The service in the church will certainly be long, and before the
theatrical performance begins we should like to arrange a little
goûter--but where? It is too far to go back to our house, and the
Sauvage, our usual resort, will be packed on that day, and quite off its
head, as they have two banquets morning and evening. The "Cafe des
Ruines," a dirty little place just under the great walls of the château,
didn't look inviting; but there was literally nothing else, so we
interviewed the proprietor, went in to the big room down stairs, which
was perfectly impossible, reeking with smoke, and smelling of cheap
liquor; but he told us he had a "très belle salle" up stairs, where we
should be quite alone. We climbed up a dark, rickety little turning
staircase, and found ourselves in quite a good room, with three large
windows on the green; the walls covered with pictures from the cheap
illustrated papers, and on the whole not too dirty. We have taken it for
the afternoon, told the patron we would come to-morrow, put up tables,
and make as many preparations as we could for the great day. He was very
anxious to furnish something--some "vin du pays;" but we told him all we
wanted was fire, plenty of hot water, and a good scrubbing of floor and
windows.
It is enchanting this afternoon. We are taking advantage of the fine
weather to drive about the country, and show our friends some of our big
farms and quaint little villages. They look exactly as they did a
hundred years ago, "when the Cossacks were here," as they say in the
country. Some of the inns have still kept their old-fashioned signs and
names. Near May, on the road to Meaux, Bossuet's fine old cathedral
town, there is a nice old square red-brick house, "L'Auberge du Veau qui
Téte" (The Inn of the Sucking Calf), which certainly indicates that this
is great farming country. There are quantities of big white oxen, cows,
and horses in the fields, but the roads are solitary. One never meets
anything except on market day. The Florians who live in Seine et Marne,
which is thickly populated--villages and châteaux close together--were
much struck with the loneliness and great stretches of wood and plain.
We are praying for fine weather, as rain would be disastrous. The main
street looks really charming. The green arch is nearly finished, and at
night, when everything is illuminated, will be most effective.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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