Chateau and Country Life in FranceWaddington, Mary King
General
Chateau and Country Life in France
Waddington, Mary King
France -- Social life and customs
It was so warm this evening that we sat out until ten o'clock. We had a
visit from Comte de G., son-in-law of our friend Mrs. L.S. He lives at
Deauville, and had announced himself for Monday morning for breakfast at
twelve. He _did_ come for breakfast, but on Tuesday morning, having been
en route since Monday morning at seven o'clock. He was in an automobile
and everything happened to him that can happen to an automobile except
an absolute smash. He punctured his tires, had a big hole in his
reservoir, his steering gear bent, his bougies always doing something
they oughtn't to. He dined and slept at Falaise; rather a sketchy
repast, but as he told us he could always get along with poached eggs,
could eat six in an ordinary way and twelve in an emergency, we were
reassured; for one can always get eggs and milk in Normandy. He arrived
in a perfectly good humour and made himself very pleasant. He is an old
soldier--a cavalry officer--and doesn't mind roughing it.
The journey from Deauville to Bagnoles is usually accomplished in three
or four hours. Falaise, the birthplace of William the Conqueror, is an
interesting old town, but looks as if it had been asleep ever since that
great event. The old castle is very fine, stands high, close to the edge
of the cliff, so that the rock seems to form part of the great walls.
There is one fine round tower, and always the grass walk around the
ramparts.
The views are beautiful. Looking down from one of the narrow, pointed
windows, still fairly preserved, we had the classic Norman landscape at
our feet--beautiful green fields, enormous trees making spots of black
shade in the bright grass, the river, sparkling in the sunshine, winding
through the meadows, a group of washerwomen, busy and chattering,
beating their clothes on the flat stones where the river narrows a
little under the castle walls, and a bright blue sky overhead.
We walked through the Grande Place--picturesque enough. On one side the
Church of La Trinité, and in the middle of the Place the bronze
equestrian statue of William the Conqueror. It is very spirited. He is
in full armor, lance in hand, his horse plunging forward toward
imaginary enemies. They say the figure was copied from Queen Mathilde's
famous tapestries at Bayeux, but it looked more modern to me. I remember
all the men and beasts and ships of those tapestries looked most
extraordinary as to shape. Monsieur R. took over the young princesses
the other day in his auto. They were very keen to see the cradle of
their race. It was curious to see the descendants of the great rough
soldier starting in an auto, fresh, pretty English girls, dressed in the
trotteuses (little short skirts) that we all wear in the country,
carrying their Kodaks and sketching materials.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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