Chateau and Country Life in FranceWaddington, Mary King
General
Chateau and Country Life in France
Waddington, Mary King
France -- Social life and customs
We went over from Villers to breakfast. It was late in the season, the
end of September--one of those bright days one sometimes has in
September, when summer still lingers and the sun gives beautiful mellow
tints to everything without being strong enough to make one feel the
heat. The road was lovely all the way, particularly after we turned off
the high road at the top of the Houlgate Hill. We went through countless
little Norman lanes, quite narrow, sometimes--between high green banks
with a hedge on top, and the trees meeting over our heads--so narrow
that I wondered what would happen if we met another auto. We left the
sea behind us, and plunged into the lovely green valley that runs along
back of the coast line. We came suddenly on the gates of the château,
rather a sharp turn. There was a broad avenue with fine trees leading up
to the house--on one side, meadows fenced off with white wooden palings
where horses and cows were grazing--a pretty lawn before the house with
beds of begonias, and all along the front, high raised borders of red
geranium which looked very well against the grey stone.
We found a family party, Comte and Comtesse d'Y----, their daughter and
a governess. We went upstairs (a nice wooden staircase with broad
shallow steps) to an end room, with a beautiful view over the park,
where we got out of all the wraps, veils, and glasses that one must have
in an open auto if one wishes to look respectable when one arrives, and
went down at once to the hall where the family was waiting.
The dining-room was large and light, high, wide windows and beautiful
trees wherever one looked. The decoration of the room was rather
curious. The d'Y----s descend--like many Norman families--from William
the Conqueror, and there are English coats-of-arms on some of the
shields on the walls. A band which looks like fresco, but is really
painted on linen--very cleverly arranged with some composition which
makes it look like the wall--runs straight around the room with all
sorts of curious figures: soldiers, horses, and boats, copied exactly
from the famous Bayeux tapestries, the most striking episodes--the
departure of the Conqueror from Dives--the embarkation of his army (the
cavalry--most extraordinary long queerly shaped horses with faces like
people)--the death of Harold--the fighting Bishop Odo--brother of the
Conqueror, who couldn't carry a lance, but had a good stout stick which
apparently did good service as various Saxons were flying horizontally
through the air as he and his steed advanced; one wonders at the
imagination which could have produced such extraordinary figures, as
certainly no men or beasts, at any period of time, could have looked
like those. The ships were less striking--had rather more the semblance
of boats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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