Chateau and Country Life in FranceWaddington, Mary King
General
Chateau and Country Life in France
Waddington, Mary King
France -- Social life and customs
We were very comfortable at Villers in a nice, clean house looking on
the sea, with broad balconies at every story, where we put sofas and
tables and green blinds, using them as extra salons. We were never in
the house except to eat and sleep. Nothing is more characteristic of the
French (particularly in the bourgeoise) than the thorough way in which
they _do_ their month at the sea-shore. They generally come for the month
of August. Holidays have begun and business, of all kinds, is slack.
Our plage was really a curiosity. There is a splendid stretch of sand
beach--at low tide one can walk, by the shore, to Trouville or Houlgate
on perfectly firm, dry sand. There are hundreds of cabins and tents,
striped red and white, and umbrellas on the beach, and all day long
whole families sit there. They all bathe, and a curious fashion at
Villers is that you put on your bathing dress in your own house--over
that a peignoir, generally of red and white striped cotton, and walk
quite calmly through the streets to the établissement. Some of the
ladies and gentlemen of mature years are not to their advantage. When
they can, if they have houses with a terrace or garden, they take their
meals outside, and as soon as they have breakfasted, start again for the
beach. When it is low tide they go shrimp-fishing or walk about in the
shallow water looking for shells and sea-weed. When it is high tide, all
sit at the door of their tents sewing, reading, or talking--I mean, of
course, the petite bourgeoisie.
At other places on the coast, Deauville or Houlgate, the life is like
Newport or Dinard, or any other fashionable seaside place, with
automobiles, dinners, dressing, etc. They get all the sea air and
out-of-door life that they can crowd into one month. One lady said to me
one day, "I can't bathe, but I take a 'bain d'air' every day--I sit on
the rocks as far out in the water as I can--take off my hat and my shoes
and stockings."
There is a great clearing out always by the first of September and then
the place was enchanting--bright, beautiful September days, one could
still bathe, the sun was so strong; and the afternoons, with just a
little chill in the air, were delightful for walking and driving. There
was a pretty Norman farm--just over the plage--at the top of the falaise
where we went sometimes for tea. They gave us very good tea, milk, and
cider, and excellent bread and butter and cheese. We sat out of doors in
an apple orchard at little tables--all the beasts of the establishment
in the same field. The chickens and sheep surrounded us, were evidently
accustomed to being fed, but the horses, cows, and calves kept quite to
the other end. We saw the girls milking the cows which, of course,
interested the children immensely.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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