Chateau and Country Life in FranceWaddington, Mary King
General
Chateau and Country Life in France
Waddington, Mary King
France -- Social life and customs
In the distance we saw figures; couldn't distinguish what they were
doing, but supposed they were fishing for shrimps, which was what our
party meant to do. The auto was filled with nets, baskets, and clothes,
as well as luncheon baskets. The hotel--a very good, simple one--with a
broad piazza going all around it, was half-way down the cliff, and the
woman was very "complaisante" and helpful--said there were plenty of
shrimps, crabs, and lobsters and no one to fish. She and her husband had
been out at four o'clock that morning and had brought back "quatre
pintes" of shrimps. No one knew what she meant, but it was evidently a
measure of some kind. I suppose an English pint. She gave us a cabin
where the two young matrons dressed, or rather undressed, as they
reappeared in their bathing trousers--which stopped some little distance
above the knee--very short skirts, bare legs, "espadrilles" on their
feet, and large Panama hats to protect them from the sun. The men had
merely rolled up their trousers. They went out very far--I could just
make them out--they seemed a part of the sea and sky, moving objects
standing out against the horizon.
I made myself very comfortable with rugs and cushions under the cliff--I
had my book as I knew it would be a long operation. It was
enchanting--sitting there, such a beautiful afternoon. We saw the
English coast quite distinctly. There was not a sound--no bathing cabins
or tents, nobody on the shore, but a few fishermen were spreading nets
on poles to catch the fish as the tide came up. The sea was quite blue,
and as the afternoon lengthened there were lovely soft lights over
everything; such warm tints it might almost have been the Mediterranean
and the Riviera. A few fishing-boats passed in the distance, but there
was nothing to break the great stillness--not even the ripple of the
waves, as the sea was too far out. It was a curious sensation to be
sitting there quite alone--the blue sea at my feet and the cliff rising
straight up behind me.
The bay is small--two points jutting out on each side, completely
shutting it in. There are a good many rocks--the water dashes over them
finely when the tide is high and the sea rough. I got rather stiff
sitting still and walked about a little on the hard beach and talked to
the fishermen. They were looking on amused and indulgently at our
amateurs, and said there were plenty of fish of all kinds _if_ one knew
how to take them. They said they made very good hauls with their nets in
certain seasons--that lots of fish came in with the tide and got
stranded, couldn't get back through the nets. One of them had two
enormous crabs in his baskets, which I bought at once, and we brought
them home in the bottom of the auto wrapped up in _very thick_ paper, as
they were still alive and could give a nasty pinch, the man said.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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