Chateau and Country Life in FranceWaddington, Mary King
General
Chateau and Country Life in France
Waddington, Mary King
France -- Social life and customs
Hardelot was a great resource to us. It is a fine domain, beautiful pine
woods running down to the sea--a great stretch of green meadow and a
most picturesque old castle quite the type of the château-fort. The
castle has now been transformed into a country club with golf-links,
tennis, and well-kept lawns under big trees which give a splendid shade
and are most resting to the eye after the glare of the beach. There is
no view of the sea from the castle, but from the top of the towers on a
fine day one just sees a quiver of light beneath the sky-line which
might be the sea.
The château has had its history like all the old feudal castles on the
sea-board and has changed hands very often, being sometimes French and
sometimes English. It was strongly fortified and resisted many attacks
from the English before it actually came into their possession. Part of
the wall and a curious old gate-way are all that remain of the feudal
days. The castle is said to have been built by Charlemagne. Henry VIII
of England lived in it for some time, and the preliminaries of a treaty
of peace between that monarch and François I were signed there--the
French and English ambassadors arriving in great state--with an endless
army of retainers. One wonders where they all were lodged, as the castle
could never have been large--one sees that from the foundations; but I
fancy habits were very simple in those days, and the suites probably
slept on the floor in one of the halls with all their clothes on, the
troopers keeping on their jack-boots so long that they had to be cut off
sometimes--the feet and legs so swollen.
The drive from the club to the plage is charming. Sometimes through
pretty narrow roads with high banks on each side, with hedges on top,
quite like parts of Devonshire, and nice, little, low, whitewashed
cottages with green shutters and red doors, much more like England than
France.
We stopped at a cottage called the Dickens House, where Charles Dickens
lived for some time. It is only one story high--white with green
shutters--stands at the end of an old-fashioned garden filled with all
sorts of ordinary garden-flowers--roses, hollyhocks, larkspurs, pinks,
all growing most luxuriantly and making patches of colour in the green
surroundings. We saw Dickens' study, his table still in the window
(where he always wrote), looking over the garden to an endless stretch
of green fields.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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