Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
Some form of hood was, doubtless, the earliest covering for the
head, either as a separately made-up article, or, as in the case of
the Greeks and Romans, formed by the drawing of the pallium or toga
over the head to serve as protection during inclement weather. The
Romans had a hooded cloak (cucullus) which was worn by the commoner
people, and which, in some form or another, has been in use during
all subsequent periods. It is, in fact, generally worn at the present
day in most parts of the Continent of Europe, and forms an extremely
reasonable and convenient article of attire.
The hood formed the principal covering for the head of both sexes
during the twelfth, thirteenth, and part of the fourteenth centuries.
The hood (chaperon) was a separate article of dress as distinct
from the cowl (capuchon), which was attached to and formed part
of the cloak or other article of dress, although the two terms are
indiscriminately used by the earlier writers.
The hood assumed, in the first instance, more or less the form of
the Phrygian cap. The tippet, or tail, was afterwards developed to a
considerable length, in the thirteenth century reaching almost to the
ground. Dante is usually represented in such a hood, with long tippet,
and in the portrait of Cimabue by Simon Memmi, _c._ 1300, the painter
appears wearing a hood with a tippet reaching a little below the middle.
The cap or hood worn by "fools" was simply the hood of the fashion of
the particular period, with the addition of the cock's comb, the pair
of ass's ears and the bells, occasionally worn all together, and often
parti-coloured.
In the wardrobe accounts of Henry VIII. occurs--"Item, for making a
doublet of worsted, lined with canvass and cotton, for William Som'ar,
our fool; item, for making of a coat and cap of green cloth fringed
with red crule and lined with frize for our said fool."
The men's turbaned head-dress of the reign of Richard II. and later is
sufficiently remarkable to warrant a description. It was a long cloth,
wound round and round the head--the edges cut, clipped and jagged in
various ways--one end of which either stood up on the top of the head
or was allowed to fall over the side of the turban, the other end
hanging down in front of the body, longer or shorter according to the
fancy or caprice of the wearer, the whole presenting a very fantastic
appearance, occasionally, however, not ungraceful.
[Illustration: HUNTING HAT.
_Orcagna, Campo Santa, Pisa._]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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