Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
It would appear that the observance of the Lord's day was more strictly
enforced in the seventeenth century than it is at present--
"Att the Councell Chamber on Ouze bridge at York ye xxth of June,
A.D. 1676," it was declared and enacted that whereas barber
surgeons have been shaving and cutting hair on the Lord's day, We
order, that if "any brother of the said company tonse, barbe, or trim
any person on the Lord's day, in any Inn," or other place, public or
private, of which the Lord Mayor shall judge, he shall be fined ten
shillings, and the searchers of the said company for the time being are
to make diligent search in all public and private houses as aforesaid,
for discovery of such offenders.
1745 was the fatal year of the separation of the barbers from their
more dignified colleagues. Their wings were clipped, their privileges
curtailed, the barber's pole and basin, however, still remaining, in
silent, eloquent testimony of their former glory and greatness.[26]
In the reign of Good Queen Bess the campaign against long hair is
continued. Philip Stubbes extols barbers to the skies: "There are no
finer fellowes under the Sunne, nor experter in their noble science of
barbing than they be." Barbers are necessary. "I cannot but marvell at
the beastlinesse of some ruffians (for they are no sober Christians)
that will have their hair grow over their faces like monsters, and
savage people; rather like mad men than otherwise, hanging downe over
their shoulders, as womens haire doth; which indeed is an ornament to
them, being given them as a sign of subjection." In man it is a "shame
and reproch, as the Apostle proveth."
During the reign of the Stuarts long hair was the vogue--with
"love-locks" and "heart breakers."
"A long love-lock on his left shoulder plight,
Like to a woman's hair, well showed a woman's sprite."
"His beard was ruddy hue, and from his head
A wanton lock itself did down dispread
Upon his back; to which, while he did live,
Th' ambiguous name of _Elf-lock_ he did give."
_The Great Oyer._
The absurd fashion of painting and patching the face, much ridiculed by
the satirists, began in the reign of Elizabeth.
"Whers the Devill?
He's got a boxe of women's paint--
Where pride is, thers the Divell too."
_Quips upon Questions, 1600._
"This is an Embleame for those painted faces,
Where devine beautie rests her for awhile,
Filling their browes with stormes and great disgraces,
That on the pained soule yeelds not a smile,
But puts true love into perpetuall exile;
Hard-hearted Soule, such fortune light on thee
That thou maist be transform'd as well as he."
CHESTER'S _Love's Martyr_, 1601.
[Illustration: A PAINTED FACE.
_Roxburghe Ballads._]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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