Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
The different shapes which the wig assumed were innumerable, and the
different classes of society were identified with particular shaped
wigs. There were the clerical and the physical; the huge tie peruke for
the man of law, the brigadier and the tremendous fox-ear or cluster of
temple curls with a pigtail behind, for the Army and Navy. (The Army
pigtail was shortened to seven inches in 1804, and in 1808 was cut off
altogether.) The merchant, the man of business and of law affected the
grave full-bottom; the tradesman was distinguished by the snug bob or
natty scratch; the country gent by the natural fly and hunting peruke;
"the coachman wore his, as do some to this day, in imitation of the
curled hair of a water-dog."
There were also, as a writer in the _London Magazine_ of 1753 informs
us, the pigeon's wing, the comet, the cauliflower, the royal bird, the
staircase, the ladder, the brush, the wild boar's back, the temple, the
rhinoceros, the corded wolf's paw, Count Saxe's mode, the she-dragon,
the rose, the crutch, the negligent, the chancellor, the cut bob, the
long bob, the half natural, the chain-buckle, the corded buckle, the
snail back, and many others.
[Illustration: BEAU FIELDING.
_After Wissing._]
"The Judge," says Fortescue, "while he sitteth in the King's Courts,
weareth a white quoife of silke, which is the principal and chiefe
insignement of habite wherewith Sergeants-at-lawe are dekked, and
neither the Justice nor the Sergeant shall ever put off the quoife, no,
not in the King's presence, though he bee in talke with his majestie's
highnesse."
The coif-cap is still worn on occasions when the Judge passes sentence
of death, but with the colour changed to black, the cap being worn over
the wig.
Samuel Rogers in his "Table Talk" tells a good story of Lord
Ellenborough's wig. On one occasion when the distinguished Judge
was about to go on circuit, his Lady intimated that she would like
to accompany him. He replied that he had no objection, provided she
did not encumber the carriage with band-boxes, which were his utter
abhorrence. During the first day's journey, happening to stretch
his legs, he struck his foot against something below the seat, and
discovered that it was one of the detested band-boxes. Up went the
window, and out went the band-box. The coachman stopped, and the
footman, thinking that the band-box had tumbled out of the window
by some extraordinary chance, was about to pick it up. "Drive on!"
thundered his lordship. The band-box was accordingly left by the
ditch. Upon his arrival at the court at which he was to officiate, and
arraying himself for his appearance at the court-house, "Now," said
he, "where's my wig?--where _is_ my wig?" "My lord," replied the
attendant, "it was thrown out of the carriage window!"
[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF THE PAINTER HYACINTHE RIGAUD.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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