Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
High plumes of feathers re-appeared in 1796. Gillray produced a
caricature of a fashionable belle journeying to the Assembly Rooms
at Bath in a sedan chair. The top of the conveyance is opened to
accommodate the lady's head-dress, a monstrous feather projecting yards
above the sedan--a parasol is fastened to a long pole strapped on the
back of the hindermost portion and protecting the top.
During the feather period, a favourite idea was to represent attacks
by ostriches, peacocks, and other interested birds. This occurs in a
number of prints of the period. The print by John Collet, 1779, of
"The Feathered Fair is a Fright; or, Restore the Borrowed Plumes,"
represents two girls attacked by ostriches:--
"Two lassies who would like their mistresses shine,
On their heads clap'd some feathers to make them look fine;
When two ostriches suddenly came within sight,
And put the poor girls in a terrible fright.
"But how the Birds got to England's no matter,
Tho' they certainly made a most terrible clatter;
Fanny screamed as she ran, and scampering Polly,
With her Fan fought the birds in defence of her folly."
If the reader be curious in regard to the _modus operandi_ of these
astonishing creations, he (or more probably it will be she) is referred
to "Plocacosmos; or, The Whole Art of Hairdressing," by James Stewart,
1782, wherein the mysteries of the art are set forth with great
minuteness and elaboration, far too long to be explained here. The
directions for the lady's "nightcap" may, however, be given:--
"All that is required at night is to take the cap or toke off, as
any other ornament, and as you put them on, you can easily know how
to take them off: with regard to the hair, nothing need be touched
but the curls; you may take the pins out of them, and, with a little
soft pomatum in your hands, stroke the hairs that may have started;
do them with nice long rollers, wind them up to the roots, and turn
the end of each roller firmly in to keep them tight, remembering at
the same time the hair should never be combed at night, having always
so bad an effect as to give a violent headache next day. After the
curls are rolled up, touch them with your pomatumy hands, and stroke
the hair behind; after that take a very large net fillet, which must
be big enough to cover the head and hair, and put it on, and drawing
the strings to a proper tightness behind, till it closes all round the
face and neck like a purse, bring the strings round the front and back
again to the neck, where they must be tied; this, with the finest lawn
handkerchief, is night covering sufficient for the head."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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