When the washing is finished, the print is lifted from the water and
allowed to drain for a few seconds, and is then carefully spread face
downwards on a fresh sheet of heavy unglazed cardboard of the kind known
as "blank." By means of a large damp brush or a delicately handled
cloth, the back of the print is smoothed out so that it lies perfectly
flat and even. Another sheet of cardboard is then placed on top of it,
and the two sheets, with the print between them, are put away under
heavy weights, such as two or three portfolios, and allowed to remain
untouched for twenty-four hours or more. A good deal of dirt, and
unfortunately a little colour, will generally soak out of the print and
into the cardboard. When dry, the print peels neatly away from the
cardboard, with its surface freshened and smoothed, sometimes almost
remade.
Thin, worn, or disintegrated prints are difficult to handle during these
processes; when wet, they tear like damp cigarette-paper. Sometimes
prints that have been damaged and skilfully mended will float away in
two or three pieces upon immersion. These and other possible troubles
make it advisable that the inexperienced collector venture not too
boldly in trying experiments. At least let him begin on prints of no
value.
After the print is dry, worm-holes or tears can be mended either by
patching or inlaying. Generally it is best to dampen the paper before
attempting this. The simplest form of repair is to paste back of the
hole a small piece of paper of the same colour as the print. A collector
will have on hand a number of worthless damaged prints of various
shades, out of which he cuts pieces for this purpose. Inlaying is more
difficult; it involves either inserting a piece of paper cut to match
the hole exactly, or inserting loose paper-pulp which is moulded to fill
the hole. Both processes require more skill than the average collector
can master, and are best left to the expert.
Stains and spots present difficult problems. Some are superficial, and
can be gradually sliced off with a very sharp thin knife--an operation
that will invariably result in the ruin of the print if tried by a
novice. Minute knowledge of the behaviour of the curious fibrous
Japanese paper is necessary for success; the expert generally works
under a glass, and prays continuously while he works. Stains that have
soaked deeply into the paper are almost hopeless. Mildew discoloration
is ineradicable. Grease-spots sometimes yield to ether, benzine, or
other common solvents. The use of these is, however, a desperate remedy;
they may spoil the print even if they remove the spot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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