Wenchow is an important town on the coast of the fertile and
beautifully-wooded province of Che-kiang, and is about equidistant from
Fuchau and Tsing-Ho. It is the port of embarkation for great quantities of
tea, and considerable trade is done in it in bamboo, wood, and timber. It
is a bright, clean-looking town, as well kept as any in the Flowery Land,
as Chinese authors love to call their country, and the streets are said
by travellers to be wider than those of any other city of the Celestial
Empire. There are, moreover, such an immense number of temples, that inns
being scarce, Europeans often lodge in the sacred buildings, the natives
offering no objection; but it must be added that in many parts of China,
pagodas are turned to account as caravanserais in which any one is allowed
to sleep and to cook food. In spite of all the stories told of the bigotry
of the Chinese, and of the awful penalties exacted for sacrilege, there
is really no doubt that taken as a whole the inhabitants of the Celestial
Empire are really less intolerant than those of Europe, a fact which
should not be forgotten in passing judgment upon them. The port of Wenchow
has increased rapidly in prosperity since the Convention of 1876 threw
it open to European trade, and many foreign vessels are always in the
harbour, discharging their cargoes of various stuffs, or taking Chinese
merchandise on board.
Wu-hu, fifty miles from Nanking, is on the Yang-tse, and so far has not
profited very much by its new privileges, though it now seems likely to
become a centre of the rice-exporting trade of the surrounding districts.
The story goes that the first Englishman to settle in Wu-hu wrote to a
fellow-countryman at Shanghai soon after his arrival, to say he had drunk
so much champagne with the Chinese governor that he was quite unable to
describe his new quarters. He had arrived in a snow-storm, a happy augury
according to the natives, but far from a pleasant one to a European.
Wu-hu is the residence of a civil magistrate, and of a _tao-tai_, whose
duties are very much those of a Prefect in French towns. There are also
a colonel, who has two regiments of soldiers under him, and two naval
officers in the Imperial service. One of the latter is in command of the
fleet stationed at the mouth of the Yang-tse, the other looks after the
gun-boats which act as the river police. The town is well built, the chief
street is a league long, well paved and bordered by beautiful houses,
some two storeys high, and all decorated with red or black lacquer signs
on which stand out the names in golden letters of the merchants owning
them. When this fine street is lit up by the oblique rays of the setting
sun the effect is as dazzling as at Canton itself. The climate is healthy,
the people are friendly to foreigners, so that many causes combine to make
Wu-hu a pleasant place of residence for Europeans. It must, however, be
added that the mandarins and government officials are alike hostile to
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