Suchow, a walled city of ten miles in circumference, the Venice of
China, lies on the Grand Canal, northwest of Shanghai. It is the
center of a population of several millions. The city is intersected
with canals, and has, among its gates, six unique water gates. Hills
surround the wide plain, which is picturesquely marked also with
canals and camel’s-back bridges. The city has long been famous for its
culture, the beauty of its women, the rich designs of its imperial
silk looms, its artists, its luxurious gardens and its boat life.
Foreign settlements are both within the walls and in the suburbs.
The shops on Kwei Tsze, Dragon, Peach and other streets, manufacture
paper, wall-paper, lacquer, horn, glass, porcelain, furniture, ivory,
cotton, linen, iron, copper, etc. The city has launch connection
with the Yangtze ports and railway connection west to Nanking, north
to Tientsin, and south to Shanghai and Hangchow. In addition to the
wonderful sunken gardens in Shu Park, there are also public gardens,
libraries, modern schools, a governor’s palace, a famous monster
octagonal pagoda overlooking a picturesque, sinuous, bridged canal, a
massive customs bridge, the South Horse bridge, twin Burmese pagodas,
and in contrast with their richness, near by, a square Ink pagoda, a
provincial university, a Confucian temple, the very artistic South
Gate pagoda, statues in Tsang Lang pavilion, Mohammedan and Buddhist
cemeteries. Modern architecture is represented by the American
Methodist University, which has what the new Chinese particularly
appreciate, a fine clock tower. It is a sign of the times in China,
for the old Chinese ignored exact time. The American Presbyterians
have a most important publishing and translating department in Suchow,
which had much to do with germinating the wonderful New China, which
in Suchow particularly was ready for the seed. Modern medicine is
represented by Blake Hospital. The city was sacked by the Taipings and
captured by General Gordon, whose victorious legions thundered through
the east gate. So great an authority as the Japanese Marquis Ito
declared that the West never should have supported the Manchu against
the Taiping revolution; that the reforms of 1911 could have been
effected in 1863. I humbly differ with this opinion, as Hung and Yang
were very different leaders from Sun Yat Sen and General Li Yuan Heng
of the immortal revolution of October 10, 1911.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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