Mukden, the home city of the Manchu race, lies one hundred miles
northeast of Newchang on the Shin River, a branch of the Liao River.
It has connection with the Japanese and Chinese railway systems,
and northward it connects with the Russian system. The stone and
brick-walled inner city is one mile across; the outer wall, with
eight double gates, is fourteen miles around, and there are important
suburbs. It is a smaller Peking in plan. East of Mukden there are
walled tombs of the Manchu emperors, and of Shun Chih and Narachu,
the founders of the dynasty, which tombs suffered in the Russo-Japan
War. A plain mound, with a growing tree upon it, covers the founder’s
tomb. Winged griffins guard the southern gateway, which is so stern
in architecture as hardly to suggest the Orient. There are the usual
pailoo memorial arches, rising on the backs of tortoises, and two
unique pillars with lions on top, which design is copied from the Ming
emperors, whose throne the Manchus ravaged. The north gate oddly is
single, and not triple in Chinese style, and is guarded by a plain,
two-roofed pagoda. The court is stone laid. The main avenue of the tomb
is guarded by monster statues of lions, camels, horses, elephants and
warriors. The ancestral temple contains a tortoise which bears the
tablets. Mourning houses, temples, stone screens and vases add to the
ensemble.
The old Chung Cheng yellow-tiled palace is at the south gate of the
city, and has been tenanted by notable and progressive viceroys, one
of whom attempted to reconcile the Eastern and Western religions. The
imperial palace, Wen So Ko, has the imperial library of 7,000 cases.
Its rich museum of priceless bronzes, vases, tapestries, etc., was
largely looted by the Manchu princes, who sold the treasures to the
curio collectors who flocked like vultures to Peking in the financial
troubles of the revolution. The Fei Lung Ko treasury is on the east
side and the Hsiang Feng Ko treasury is on the west side. There is a
modern Chinese commercial museum; the Yamato Hotel in the extensive
Japanese section; a Japanese railway medical college; an Astor Hotel;
a Chinese medical college; and the medical college of the Scotch
Presbyterians outside the east gate, with which the noted author,
Doctor J. Ross, is connected. Doctor Christie, of Mukden, was another
hero of the terrific pneumonic plague in Manchuria in 1910–11. The
usual favorite Fox Temple of the Manchu race is to be seen. There is
a Taoist Temple of Hell, with horrible statues. The Temple to the God
of Literature is the most beautiful in bare Manchuria, because of the
artistic proportion of its walls, galleries, roofs and stairs; but
the temple has little independent meaning, because the Manchus have
absolutely no original literature, possessing in their perpendicular
Syriac-like script only copies of Chinese literature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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