The Bankers’ Guild building is famous for its many-pinnacled roof and
ornate tiling. Its monuments relate the intellectual communion of China
and India in the seventh century A. D. Very old buildings exhibit a
four-leaf clover design in stone screens, and the fish-scale design
in wooden and bamboo balustrades. There are wonderful gardens with
pavilions and wavy stone bridges. Pailoos, bearing legends, are built
over the entrance stairs to temples and guild houses. The square space
within the walls is six miles long each way. One reason for its strong
fortification is that it is in the Mohammedan section of China, and the
Mohammedans are always rebelling. It withstood a Mohammedan siege of
two years in 1870–1.
If Russia aimed to cut off eastern from western China, she would strike
at Singan, as it is the strategic base which holds Turkestan, Tibet and
Szechuen to the empire. Its trade is vast and various. From a religious
and antiquarian point of view, hardly any Chinese city equals it in the
interest of Occidentals, for here the famous Nestorian Tablet, dated
781 A.D., stands in the park of a heathen temple. This tablet records
the communion of the earliest Chinese Christians. A copy of this
supremely venerable and artistic stone was placed in the Metropolitan
Museum of Art, New York, in 1909. The National Library, Paris, has
had a replica since 1850. The Pei Lin Park contains a library cut in
1,300 stone tablets; the “Stone Forest”, it is called. The city lies
in a plain, and presents a striking appearance from the limestone
and loess hills which surround it. In these hills, to the northwest,
are cut the cave dwellings, temples and statues of prehistoric and
early civilizations. In one cave temple is the sandstone and gilt
colossal Ta-Fu-Tsze Buddha, fifty-six feet high, the largest statue
in China, showing the tremendous zeal of the Buddhist movement in the
brilliant Tang dynasty in the seventh century, when our Europe was in
intellectual darkness. Two colossal statues of Buddha’s pupils are also
in this temple.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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