I had pleasant evenings at our consulate and at the postal
commissioners’, making the acquaintance of the British and American
colony. Their gardens were gay with flowers. But again the rain came
down, and when we visited a Chinese school at Chien Be our day was rather
spoilt by it. Mr. Wang borrowed a little steam launch to take us there,
as it is a considerable distance away. He told us how Mr. Dan had made
a fortune in the Straits Settlements, where he had seen much of the
British and had conceived a desire to imitate their philanthropy. Having
had little education as a boy he decided to build schools and finally a
university on European lines. He was his own architect, and had succeeded
in building spacious and well-planned school house, dormitories, etc.;
he is now putting up a similar school for girls. At present they are
housed in a neighbouring village, while Mr. Dan and his family live in a
cottage in the simplest manner possible. It is really a fine place and
most generously supported in every way. The salaries of teachers are
from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars, whereas in the missions they
receive five dollars. This is one of the new difficulties confronting all
missions: the salaries of their workers must be quadrupled in order to
approach those of Government and other employees.
I left Amoy in pouring rain and had a good little voyage to Swatow on a
most comfortable steamer, reaching it at 6 a.m. Here again one has to
go ashore in a sampan, and the ladies sent their cook in one to fetch
me. The English Presbyterian Mission has charming quarters, their only
drawback being that they are too near the execution ground, and they may
have houses built in front of them. At present they have a lovely view
over the bay. Dr. Heyworth has charge of a nice big women’s hospital,
where there is an admirable Chinese staff of nurses. It is an infinite
pity that there should be so small a European staff—only a man and a
woman apiece for the two hospitals, and they have in addition to train
their own staff. Miss Paton has charge of the girls’ school, and I
must again note how such busy workers found time to give me the most
delightful hospitality. Of course there are European hotels in Amoy,
Swatow and Foochow, etc., for there is an ever-increasing number of
foreign merchants in these cities, but I have had the good fortune to
stay with missionary friends, so cannot speak of the hotels from personal
experience. It makes travelling for foreigners, however, much simpler
than it used to be, and a trip along the China coast is a delightful one,
for the scenery is most beautiful and there are all kinds of interesting
places to visit—when it does not rain!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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