We returned next day to Swatow, where the guide-book tells you there is
nothing to see. On the contrary, I found a great deal to see under Dr.
Whyte’s guidance. A temple was being redecorated with beautiful paintings
of most delicate and imaginative workmanship all along its walls. The
tireless skill and industry of the artists filled me with envy. The
trades of the place were fascinating; as for instance the soldering of
pans with holes in them. The mender has his boiling metal in a portable
heater and handles it with a glove, dabbing little patches round the
hole till it is filled up. While watching with absorbed interest I felt
a stealthy hand taking a few stray cash out of my pocket, but the thief
was so inexperienced that when I caught his hand he dropped the cash
into mine! Another interesting but rather hot sight was the blowing of
glass lamp-chimneys. Yet another less pleasing industry was the canning
of lychees; about a hundred dirty little girls are employed in it. I
will draw a veil over this, or no one would eat the delicacy, which I
had greatly enjoyed up to that time. A vision of Tiptree flashed across
my mind: it would be a beautiful thing to have Tiptree in China. The
fruits at Swatow are so lovely: to see the stalls piled up with pomeloes,
pineapples, peaches, lychees, bananas, dragon’s eyes and other fruit make
one’s mouth water. Equally beautiful—though horrible in smell—are the
fish stalls, but here the names are quite beyond me.
One afternoon we had an amusing ride through the ricefields, where the
process of harvesting was in full swing. The vehicle for such travel is
a comfortable wicker chair to hold two persons (first class), or four
(second class) in a less comfortable chair. The chairs are on runners, on
a light railway line; they are pushed by swift coolies, so that they go
at a good pace. Extra cash = express speed!
We met a few missionaries here on their way for a summer holiday to a
health resort, but it takes time and money to reach any such place, and
travelling up-country here seems very fatiguing, especially with slender
means. I regretfully parted from the congenial group of missionaries who
had conspired to give me such a pleasant time, and set off with several
ladies for Hong Kong.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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