Christmas in Ritual and Tradition, Christian and PaganMiles, Clement A.
History
Christmas in Ritual and Tradition, Christian and Pagan
Miles, Clement A.
Christmas; Christmas -- History; Fasts and feasts
Cakes and pies, partly or wholly of vegetable origin, are, of course, as
conspicuous at the English Christmas as animal food. The peculiar
"luckiness" attached to some of them (as when mince-pies, eaten in
different houses during the Twelve Days, bring a happy month each) makes
one suspect some more serious original purpose than mere gratification of
the appetite. A sacrificial or sacramental origin is probable, at least
in certain cases; a cake made of flour, for instance, may well have been
regarded as embodying the spirit immanent in the corn.{4} Whether any
mystic significance ever belonged to the plum-pudding it is hard to say,
though the sprig of holly stuck into its |285| top recalls the lucky
green boughs we have so often come across, and a resemblance to the
libations upon the Christmas log might be seen in the burning brandy.
A dish once prominent at Christmas was "frumenty" or "furmety" (variously
spelt, and derived from the Latin _frumentum_, corn). It was made of
hulled wheat boiled in milk and seasoned with cinnamon, sugar, &c.{5}
This too may have been a cereal sacrament. In Yorkshire it was the first
thing eaten on Christmas morning, just as ale posset was the last thing
drunk on Christmas Eve. Ale posset was a mixture of beer and milk, and
each member of the family in turn had to take a "sup," as also a piece of
a large apple-pie.{6}
In the Highlands of Scotland, among those who observed Christmas, a
characteristic dish was new sowens (the husks and siftings of oatmeal),
given to the family early on Christmas Day in their beds. They were
boiled into the consistence of molasses and were poured into as many
bickers as there were people to partake of them. Everyone on despatching
his bicker jumped out of bed.{7} Here, as in the case of the Yorkshire
frumenty, the eating has a distinctly ceremonial character.
In the East Riding of Yorkshire a special Yule cake was eaten on
Christmas Eve, "made of flour, barm, large cooking raisins, currants,
lemon-peel, and nutmeg," and about as large as a dinner-plate.{8} In
Shropshire "wigs" or caraway buns dipped in ale were eaten on Christmas
Eve.{9} Again elsewhere there were Yule Doughs or Dows, little images of
paste, presented by bakers to their customers.{10} We shall see plenty
of parallels to these on the Continent. When they are in animal or even
human form they may in some cases have taken the place of actual
sacrificial victims.{11}
In Nottinghamshire the Christmas cake was associated with the
wassail-bowl in a manner which may be compared with the Macedonian custom
described later; it was broken up and put into the bowl, hot ale was
poured over it, and so it was eaten.{12}
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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