Christmas in Ritual and Tradition, Christian and PaganMiles, Clement A.
History
Christmas in Ritual and Tradition, Christian and Pagan
Miles, Clement A.
Christmas; Christmas -- History; Fasts and feasts
We have already come across peculiar cakes eaten at various pre-Christmas
festivals; at Christmas itself special kinds of bread, pastry, and cakes
abound on the Continent, and in some cases at least may have a religious
origin.
In France various sorts of cakes and loaves are known at the season of
_Noel_. In Berry on Christmas morning loaves called _cornaboeux_, made in
the shape of horns or a crescent, are distributed to the poor. In
Lorraine people give one another _cognes_ or _cogneux_, a kind of pastry
in the shape of two crescents back to back, or else long and narrow in
form and with a crescent at either end. In some parts of France the
_cornaboeux_ are known as _holais_, and ploughmen give to the poor as many
of these loaves as they possess oxen and horses.{24} These horns may be
substitutes for a sacrifice of oxen.
Sometimes the French Christmas cakes have the form of complete oxen or
horses--such were the thin unleavened cakes sold in the early nineteenth
century at La Chatre (Indre). In the neighbourhood of Chartres there are
_cochenilles_ and _coquelins_ in animal and human shapes. Little cakes
called _naulets_ are sold by French bakers, and actually represent the
Holy Child. With them may be compared the _coignoles_ of French Flanders,
cakes of oblong form adorned with the figure of the infant Jesus in
sugar.{25} Sometimes the Christmas loaf or cake in France has healing
properties; a certain kind of cake in Berry and Limousin is kept all
through the year, and a piece eaten in sickness has marvellous
powers.{26}
Cortet gives an extraordinary account of a French custom |288|
connected with eating and drinking. At Mouthe (Doubs) there used to be
brought to the church at Christmas pies, cakes, and other eatables, and
wine of the best. They were called the "De fructu," and when at Vespers
the verse "De fructu ventris tui ponam super sedem tuam" was reached, all
the congregation made a rush for these refreshments, contended for them,
and carried them off with singing and shouting.{27}
The most remarkable of Christmas cakes or loaves is the Swedish and
Danish "Yule Boar," a loaf in the form of a boar-pig, which stands on the
table throughout the festal season. It is often made from the corn of the
last sheaf of the harvest, and in it Dr. Frazer finds a clear expression
of the idea of the corn-spirit as embodied in pig form. "Often it is kept
till sowing-time in spring, when part of it is mixed with the seed corn
and part given to the ploughman and plough-horses or plough-oxen to eat,
in the expectation of a good harvest." In some parts of the Esthonian
island of Oesel the cake has not the form of a boar, but bears the same
name, and on New Year's Day is given to the cattle. In other parts of the
island the "Yule Boar" is actually a little pig, roasted on Christmas Eve
and set up on the table.{28}
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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