Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical GuidesAllen, Grant
History
Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical Guides
Allen, Grant
Belgium -- Guidebooks
In the chapel next it to the R. is a =triptych=, the Descent from the
Cross (covered, the Sacristan will open it: 1 franc); usually attributed
to Roger van der Weyden, but much disputed. It is probably a smaller
(altered) copy of the famous composition in the Escurial at Madrid (see
Conway). The _central picture_ has Christ supported by Joseph of
Arimathea and Nicodemus, with the fainting Madonna, St. John, and the
other Maries. The singularly unpleasing fat cook-like Magdalen, in a
rich robe, is a constant feature in the group of Descents from the Cross
by Roger and his pupils. Study this picture. The _L. panel_ has a good
portrait of the donor, with his two sons, accompanied by his patron St.
James the Greater (or St. William?). The _R. panel_ has his wife, with
her two daughters and her patroness, St. Adelaide (or St. Elizabeth of
Hungary, holding the crown which she gave up for the Franciscan
profession?).
In the _sixth chapel_ is a fine Renaissance tomb, representing Adolf van
Baussede in adoration before the Trinity, introduced by his patron St.
Adolphus, with allegorical figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The work
is almost Italian in character.
Over the High Altar is a modern figure of the patron, St. Peter,
enthroned as pope, and with papal symbols behind him. Left of it is the
fine canopy we have already observed from the outside, with scenes from
the Passion. The architecture here is striking.
The great Quentin Matsys of the Family of St. Anne in the Brussels
Picture Gallery was formerly an altar-piece in this church.
There is nothing else at Louvain that need detain you. If you like, you
can stroll a little way down the Rue de Namur, just to the R. of the
Hôtel-de-Ville. It contains some good old houses. The desolate building
on your R. was originally the Halles, but is now the University. It was
built for the Guild of Clothmakers in 1317, and has been wholly
modernised; but there are some good Gothic arches on the basement floor
within (approach down the side street to the R.). Further on is the
Collège du St. Esprit on the R., and the Church of St. Michel
(uninteresting) on the L. The street which here runs off obliquely
conducts to the Collège Marie-Thérèse, and the Collège Adrien VI.,
uninteresting, and all used as hostelries for the students. The only
other objects to look at in Louvain are the =choir-stalls= in carved
wood, early Renaissance, at the Church of =St. Gertrude=, dedicated to
the Abbess of Nivelles and aunt of St. Gudula. It lies down the Rue de
Malines, in the opposite direction from the Rue de Namur. You have then
seen Louvain.
* * * * *
On your way from Brussels to Antwerp, you ought to visit Malines
Cathedral. The easiest way is to book your luggage through, and then
stop for an hour or two at Malines, going on by a later train.
IV
ANTWERP
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