Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical GuidesAllen, Grant
History
Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical Guides
Allen, Grant
Belgium -- Guidebooks
Do not suppose from
this, however, that the place is only interesting to book-hunters or
lovers of engravings. The =pictures and decorations= alone,—nay, the
house itself—will amply repay a visit.
* * * * *
A walk should be taken from the Place Verte, by the Vieux Marché au Blé,
or through the Marché aux Gants, to the river front and =Port= of the
Schelde. (Follow the tram-line.) Here two handsome raised =promenoirs=
or esplanades, open to the public, afford an excellent *view over the
river, the old town, and the shipping in the harbour.
The _southernmost_ (and pleasantest) of these _promenoirs_ ends (S.)
near the =Porte de l’Escaut=, a somewhat insignificant gateway, designed
by Rubens, and adorned with feeble sculpture by Arthus Quellin. It stood
originally a little lower down the river, but has been removed, stone by
stone, to its present situation. The quaint red building, with hexagonal
turrets at the angles, visible from both esplanades, is the _Vieille
Boucherie_, or Butchers’ Guild Hall, of 1503. It stands in a squalid
quarter, but was once a fine edifice. Near the N. end of this
_promenoir_, a =ferry-boat= runs at frequent intervals to the
=Tête-de-Flandre= on the opposite shore of the river. Here there is a
Kursaal and a strong fort. It is worth while crossing on a fine day in
order to gain a general view of the quays and the town. The
_northernmost promenoir_ is approached by an archway under the
castellated building known as the =Steen=. This is a portion of the old
Castle of Antwerp, originally belonging to the Margraves and the Dukes
of Brabant, but made over by Charles V. to the burghers of Antwerp. The
Inquisition held its sittings in this castle. It is now, though much
restored and quite modern-looking (except the portal), almost the only
remaining relic of Mediæval Antwerp, outside the Cathedral. It contains
a small Museum of Antiquities (unimportant; open daily, 10 to 4: 1 fr.:
Sunday and Thursday free). Unless you have plenty of time you need not
visit it.
A little way beyond the N. end of the _northern promenoir_ a tangled
street leads to the =Church of St. Paul=, which will be described
hereafter. Continuing along the _Quays_ in this direction you arrive at
last at the =Docks=. The large modern castellated building in front of
you is the =Pilotage=, round which sea-captains congregate in clusters.
Turning along the dirty quay to the R., you reach shortly on the L. the
site of the =Maison Hanséatique=, which was the _entrepôt_ in Antwerp of
the Hanseatic League. But it was burnt down a few years since, and its
place is now occupied by mean sheds and warehouses. All this quarter is
given over to the most unsightly and malodorous realities of modern
seafaring life and commerce.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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