Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical GuidesAllen, Grant
History
Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical Guides
Allen, Grant
Belgium -- Guidebooks
Most of the Antwerp churches, other than the Cathedral, are late Gothic
or Renaissance buildings, disfigured by all the flyaway marble
decorations so strangely admired during the 17th and 18th centuries. Few
of them deserve a visit, save for a picture or two of Rubens still
preserved on their altars. There are one or two, however, usually gone
through by tourists, and of these I shall give some brief account, for
the benefit of those who care for such things, though I do not think you
need trouble about them, unless you have plenty of time, and are
specially attracted by the later School of Antwerp.
The most important of these rococo churches is =St. Jacques=, the
principal doorway of which opens into the Longue Rue Neuve. The
pleasantest way to reach it, however, is to go from the Place Verte
through the Marché aux Souliers, following the tramway to the Place de
Meir. This broad street (one of the few open ones in Antwerp), lined by
baroque Renaissance mansions of some pretensions, has been formed by
filling up an old canal. The most imposing building on the R., marked by
two angels holding an oval with the letter L. (the king’s initial), is
the =Royal Palace=. A little further on, upon the same side of the
street, is the =House of Rubens’s Parents=, with his bust above, and an
inscription on its pediment signifying the fact in the Latin tongue. To
reach St. Jacques you need not go quite as far down the street as these
two buildings. Turn to your L. at the =Bourse=, a handsome modern
edifice, standing at the end of what looks like a blind alley. The road
runs through it, and it is practically used as a public thoroughfare.
The building itself is recent—1869-72—but it occupies the site of a
late-Gothic Exchange of 1531, erected by Dominic van Waghemakere. The
present Bourse resembles its predecessor somewhat in style, but is much
larger, has an incongruous Moorish tinge, and is provided with a
nondescript glass-and-iron roof. Turn to the R. at the end of the lane,
and continue down the Longue Rue Neuve, which leads you towards St.
Jacques, a late-Gothic church, never quite completed. The entrance is
not by the _façade_, but on the S. side, in the Longue Rue Neuve.
(Visitors admitted from 12 till 4 p.m., 1 fr. per person. Knock at the
door, and the sacristan will open.)
The =interior= is of good late-Gothic architecture, terribly over-loaded
with Renaissance tombs and sprawling baroque marble decorations. The
church was used as the Pantheon (or Westminster Abbey) for burials of
distinguished Antwerp families under the Spanish domination; and they
have left in every part of it their ugly and tasteless memorials.
Begin in the =S. Aisle=.
_1st chapel._ Van Dyck: St. George and the Dragon: mediocre. Above,
statue of St. George, to whom angels offer crowns of martyrdom. Good
modern marble reliefs of Scenes from the Passion, continued in
subsequent chapels.
At the end, Baptistery, with good font.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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