Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical GuidesAllen, Grant
History
Cities of Belgium: Grant Allen's Historical Guides
Allen, Grant
Belgium -- Guidebooks
The chief objects of interest at Ghent are the Cathedral, with its great
=Van Eyck=; and the =Town Hall= and =Belfry=. These can be tolerably
seen in one day: but a stay of three or four days will not be too much
to explore the curious nooks of the early city.
_B._ THE CORE OF GHENT
[The =old town= of Ghent lies on the island formed by the
junction of the Lys and the Schelde, with their various
backwaters (all now largely artificial). Near this point, but
beyond the Lys, the Counts of Flanders early erected a strong
=castle=, the _Gravensteen_ or _Oudeburg_, beneath whose
protection, aided by the two navigable rivers, merchants and
weavers gradually settled. As at Bruges, the heart of the town,
however, is purely =municipal and mercantile= in its
architecture. The _Town Hall_, which was the meeting-place of
the citizens, and the _Belfry_, which summoned them to arms or
council, are the chief points of interest in the city. The
Schelde is still tidal to its very centre.
As most visitors will probably stop in one of the hotels on the
=Place d’Armes=, near the S. end of older Ghent, I shall frankly
take that square as our starting-point. It may facilitate
recognition at first sight to add that the large square tower,
visible to the R. from the Place d’Armes, is that of the
Cathedral, while the tapering spire, crowned by a gilt dragon,
belongs to the Belfry.]
Go first on a =tour of orientation= through early Ghent. If you follow
these directions implicitly, you can see everything important in one
short walk. Cross the Place d’Armes diagonally to the N.E. corner, and
follow the small and narrow streets which run due N. to the front of the
=Cathedral=. Walk round the S. side of this, to form a first general
impression, but do not enter it at present.
Then, from the West Front of the Cathedral, take the Rue St. Jean
straight before you. The tower with the gilded dragon which faces you as
you walk is that of the =Belfry=. It was designed in 1183, about a
century earlier than that of Bruges, but only erected between 1321 and
1339; it is a fine work in the Early Gothic style. Its windows have been
walled up. The tapering turret which crowns the tower is unfortunately
modern, and of iron. On the very summit stands a huge gilded =dragon=,
which universal tradition represents as having been brought from St.
Sophia at Constantinople to Bruges by the Crusader Baldwin of Flanders,
(1204), and removed as a trophy by the people of Ghent (under Philip van
Artevelde) in 1382. It certainly appears to be of Oriental origin, but
is stated on documentary evidence (discovered by M. Vuylsteke) to have
been made in Ghent itself in 1380. If so, it would seem at least to be
based on an Oriental model.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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