=Old Ghent= occupied for the most part the island which extends from the Palais de Justice on one side to the Botanical Gardens on the other. This island, bounded by the Lys, the Schelde, and an ancient canal, includes almost all the principal buildings of the town, such as the Cathedral, St. Nicolas, the Hôtel-de-Ville, the Belfry, and St. Jacques, as well as the chief Places, such as the Marché aux Grains, the Marché aux Herbes, and the Marché du Vendredi. It also extended beyond the Lys to the little island on which is situated the church of St. Michel, and again to the islet formed between the Lieve and the Lys, which contains the _château_ of the Counts and the Place Ste. Pharailde. In the later middle ages, however, the town had spread to nearly its existing extreme dimensions, and was probably more populous than at the present moment. But its ancient =fortifications= have been destroyed, and their place has been taken by boulevards and canals. The line may still be traced on the map, or walked round through a series of shipping suburbs; but it is uninteresting to follow, a great part of its course lying through the more squalid portions of the town. The only remaining =gate= is that known as the =Rabot= (1489), a very interesting and picturesque object, situated in a particularly slummy quarter. It can best be reached by crossing the bridge near the church of St. Michel, and continuing along the Rue Haute to the Boulevard du Béguinage, (where stood originally the Grand Béguinage, whose place is now occupied by modern streets.) Turn there along the boulevard to the R., till you reach the gate, which consists of two curious round towers, enclosing a high and picturesque gable-end. Owing to the unpleasant nature of the walk, I do _not_ recommend this excursion. * * * * * The =S. quarter= of the town, beyond the Cathedral and St. Nicolas, has been much modernized during the last two centuries. Its only interesting points are the recent =Palais de Justice= and the =Kouter= or =Place d’Armes=, (once the archery ground) in which a pretty flower-market is held on Friday and Sunday mornings. The Café des Arcades, at its E. end, occupies the site of Hubert van Eyck’s studio. The rest of the inner town contains little that throws light on its origin or history. * * * * * There is, however, one small excursion which it would be well for those to take who have a morning to spare, and who desire to understand the development of Ghent—I mean to the =Monastery of St. Bavon=, which alone recalls the first age of the city. Every early mediæval town had outside its walls a ring of abbeys and monasteries, and Ghent was particularly rich in this respect.