Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
General
Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.
Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
Agriculture -- France; France -- Description and travel
I have mentioned the mistral. I had heard a great deal previously about
this wind, and while at Beziers, had the pleasure of making its personal
acquaintance. This mistral is the plague and the curse of the
Mediterranean provinces of France. The ancient historians mention it as
sweeping gravel and stones up into the air. St. Paul talks of the south
wind, which blew softly until there arose against it a fierce wind,
called Euroclydon--certainly the mistral. Madame de Sevigne paints it as
"_le tourbillon, l'ouregan, tous les diables dechainés qui veulent bien
emporter votre chateau_;" and my amazement is, that the hurricane does
not sometimes carry bodily off, if not a chateau, at least the ricketty
villages of the peasants. I had but a taste of this wild, gusty, and
most abominably drying and cutting wind; for the gale which blew for a
couple of days over Beziers formed, I was told, only a very modified
version of the true mistral; but it was quite enough to give a notion of
the wind in the full height of its evil powers. The whole country was
literally one moving cloud of dust. The roads, so to speak, smoked. From
an eminence, you could trace their line for miles by the columns of
white powdered earth driven into the air. As for the paths you actually
traversed, the ground-down gravel was blown from the ruts, leaving the
way scarred, as it were, with ridgy seams, and often worn down to the
level of the subsidiary stratum of rock. The streaky, russet-brown of
the fields was speedily converted into one uniform grey. Never had I
seen anything more intensely or dismally parched up. As for any tree or
vegetable but vines and olives--whose very sustenance and support is
dust and gravel, thriving under the liability to such visitations--the
thing was impossible. Nor was the dust by any means the only evil. The
wind seemed poisonous; it made the eyes--mine, at all events--smart and
water; cracked the lips, as a sudden alternation from heat to cold will
do; caused a little accidentally inflicted scratch to ache and shoot;
and finally, dried, hardened, and roughened the skin, until one felt in
an absolute fever. The cold in the shade, let it be noted, was
intense--a pinching, nipping cold, in noways frosty or kindly; while in
sheltered corners the heat was as unpleasant, the blaze of an unclouded
sun darting right down upon the parched and gleaming earth. All this,
however, I was told, formed but a modified attack of mistral. The true
wind mingles with the flying dust a greyish or yellowish haze, through
which the sun shines hot, yet cheerless. I had, however, a specimen of
the wind, which quite satisfied me, and which certainly enables me to
affirm, that the coldest, harshest, and most rheumatic easterly gale
which ever whistled the fogs from Essex marshes over the dripping and
shivering streets of London, is a genial, balmy, and ambrosial zephyr,
compared with the mistral of the ridiculously bepuffed climate of the
South of France.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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