Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
General
Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.
Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
Agriculture -- France; France -- Description and travel
Few Mediterranean harbours are savoury
places. It will be remembered that "there shrinks no ebb in that
tideless sea;" and accordingly, when the drainage of a town or a
district is led into the harbours, there it stays. Marseilles enjoys a
most unenviable notoriety in this respect. The horrible fluid beneath
you becomes, in the summer time, despite its salt, absolutely putrid;
and I was told that there had been instances in which it bred noisome
and abhorrent insects and reptiles--that, literally and absolutely,
"slimy things did crawl, with legs, upon the slimy sea."
As for the stench, the richness of the steam of fat gases perpetually
rising, must be smelt to be appreciated. The Marseillaise, however, have
sturdy noses, which do not yield to trifles. They say the dirt preserves
the ships, and besides, adds Dumas--a great favourer of the ancient
colony of the Greeks--"what a fool a man must be, who, under such a
glorious sky, turns his eyes down to gaze on mud and water!"
The harbour of Cette is not quite so bad, but it has no particular
transparency of water to recommend it. Brave its foulness, however, and
go and visit the quays for the fishing-boats, as they are returning from
their night's toil. Mark the Catalan craft--you will perhaps remember
that the redoubted Monte Christo's first love was a Catalan girl, of a
Catalan village near Marseilles:--did you ever see more
exquisitely-formed boats afloat on the water? They swim apparently on
the very surface--the curve of the gunwale rising to a gondola peak at
stem and stern; but yet they are most buoyant sea-boats, and I suspect
their speed, particularly in light winds, would put even that of the
Yankee pilot-boats to a severe test. Look, too, at their cargoes, as the
slippery masses are being shovelled up in glancing, gleaming spadefuls,
to the quays. Did you ever see such odd fish? Respectable haddocks,
decent and well-to-do cods, and unpretending soles, would never be seen
in such strange, eccentric company--among fellows with heads bigger than
bodies, and eyes in their backs, and tails absurdly misplaced, and
feelers or legs where no fish with well-regulated minds would dream of
having such appendages--never was there seen such a strange _omnium
gatherum_ of piscatory eccentricities as the fishes of the
Mediterranean.
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