Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
General
Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.
Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
Agriculture -- France; France -- Description and travel
The olives of France, this gentleman informed me, are very inferior to
the trees of a couple of generations ago. Towards the close of the last
century, there was a winter night of intense frost; and when the morning
broke, the trees were nearly smitten to the core. That year there was
not an olive gathered in Provence or Languedoc. The next season, some of
the stronger and younger trees partially revived, and slips were planted
from those to which the axe had been applied; but the entire species of
the tree, he assured me, had fallen off--had dwindled, and pined, and
become stunted; and the profits of olive cultivation had faded with it.
The gentleman spoke on the subject with a degree of unction which would
have suited the fall, not of the olive, but of man. It was a catastrophe
which coloured his whole life. He was himself an olive proprietor; and
very likely his fortunes fell on the fatal night as many points as the
thermometer. On our way to Lunel we saw the olive-gathering just
beginning; but, alas! it had none of the gaiety and bright associations
of the vintage. On the contrary, it was as business-like and unexciting
as weeding onions, or digging potatoes. A set of ragged peasants--the
country people hereabouts are poorly dressed--were clambering barefoot
in the trees, each man with a basket tied before him, and lazily
plucking the dull oily fruit. Occasionally, the olive-gatherers had
spread a white cloth beneath the tree, and were shaking the very ripe
fruit down; but there was neither jollity nor romance about the process.
The olive is a tree of association, but that is all. Its culture, its
manuring, and clipping, and trimming, and grafting--the gathering of its
fruits, and their squeezing in the mill, when the ponderous stone goes
round and round in the glutinous trough, crushing the very essence out
of the oily pulps--while the fat, oleaginous stream pours lazily into
the greasy vessels set to receive it;--all this is as prosaic and
uninteresting as if the whole Royal Agricultural Society were presiding
in spirit over the operations. And, after all, what could be expected?
"Grapes," said a clever Frenchman, "are wine-pills"--the notion of
conviviality and mirth is ever attached to them; and the vintagers, when
stripping the loaded branches, have their minds involuntarily carried
forward to the joyous ultimate results of their labours. But who--our
friends the Russians, and their cousins the Esquimaux excepted--could
possibly be jolly over the idea of oil? It may act balsamically and
soothingly; and the idea of the olive saucer, green amongst the bright
decanters, does approach, in some respect, towards the production of a
pleasant association of ideas; but still the elevated and poetic
feelings connected with the tree are remote and dim.
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