The great features of Nismes are, as every body knows, the features which the Romans left behind them. Provence and Languedoc were the regions of Gaul which the great masters of the world liked best, probably because they were nearest home; and obscure as was the Roman Nismes--for I believe that Nimauses lays claim to no historic dignity whatever--it must still have been a populous and important place: the unmouldering masonry of the Roman builders proves it. I had never seen any Roman remains to speak of, and, to tell the truth, had never been able to work up any great enthusiasm about the fragments of the ancient people which I had come across. I had bathed in all the Roman baths wherewith London abounds, but found no inspiration in the waters--I had stood on grassy mounds of earth, believed to have been Roman camps; traced like the Antiquary, the _Ager_, with its corresponding _fossa_--marked the _porta sinistra_ and the _porta dextra_--and stood where some hook-nosed general had reclined in the _Pretorium_; but I again confess that my imagination did not fly impulsively back, and bury itself among _patres conscripti_, togas, vestal virgins, lictors, patricians, equites, and plebeians. And, in fact, such mere vague traces and memorials as baths, bits of pavement, and dusty holes, with smouldering brick-basements, which people call "Roman villas,"--are not at all fitted, whatever would-be classicists may pretend, to stir up the strong tide of enthusiastic association. These are but miserable odds and ends of fragments, from which you can no more leap to the dignity and the grandeur of the Romans, than you could argue, never having seen a man, from finding a cast-away tooth-pick, up to the appearance and nature of the invisible owner. But let us see a great specimen of a great Roman work, and then we are in the right track. Any builder could have made you a bath--any sapper and miner could have traced you out a camp--any of the small architects with whom we are infested could have knocked you up a villa--but give us a characteristic bit of the great people who are dead and gone, and then we can, or, at all events, we will try, to take their measure.