Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
General
Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.
Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
Agriculture -- France; France -- Description and travel
"See!" said the weaver; "this is the Protestant side of the valley,--all
Protestants here. Not a Catholic _cabane_--no, no! they must go
elsewhere,--we have nothing to do with them,--we shake off the dust of
our feet upon them and theirs. You and I are one, upon our own
ground--Protestant ground--staunch and true;" and he stamped with his
foot upon the pebbles. "Monsieur must absolutely go with me to my
_cabane_, and drink a glass of wine to the good cause; and see my
rabbits--Protestant rabbits."
Who could resist this last attraction? We turned and toiled up the
flinty paths together; my acquaintance informing me, with great pride,
that M. Guizot was a good Protestant of Nismes, as his father, who had
fallen, _dans le terreur_, was before him. He understood that M. Guizot
was then in England, and he was sure that he would be delighted at
seeing such a fine Protestant country, and such a staunch Protestant
people. Stopping at length at an unpainted door, in the rough,
unmortared wall, my friend opened it, and we stepped into a little patch
of garden, planted with olives and straggling vine-bushes. "They are
much better cultivated, and give better oil and better wine," he said,
"than the Catholic grounds;" and I am sure he believed the asseveration.
Having duly inspected the "Protestant rabbits," we entered the _cabane_,
a bare, rough, white-washed room, with a table, a few chairs, and
unglazed lattices. Unless when the mistral blows, the open air is seldom
or never unpleasant; and then wooden shutters are applied to the
windward side of the houses. On this occasion, however, there was not a
breath stirring amid the silvery grey leaves of the olives. The
grasshoppers--fellows of a size which would astound Sir Thomas
Gresham--chirped and leaped in the grass at the foot of the wall; scores
and scores of lithe, yellow lizards, with the blackest of eyes, flashed
up and down over the rough stones, and shot in and out of the crevices;
but, excepting these sights and sounds, all around was hushed and
motionless; and the sun, wintry though it was, flooded all the still,
brown valley with a deluge of pure, hot light.
The weaver filled a very comfortable couple of glasses with a small, but
not ill-tasted, wine. "Here's to----;" he uttered a sentiment not
complimentary to the Catholic Church, and, indeed, consigning it to the
warmest of quarters, and took off his liquor with undeniable unction. I
need not say whether I drunk the toast: anyhow, I drunk the wine.
"And now look there," continued my host, pointing with his empty glass
through the open window, to the north. The bare, blue hills of the
Cevennes lay--a long ridge of mountain scenery, stretching from the
valley of the Rhone as far and farther than the eye could follow
them--towards that of the Garonne.
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