Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
General
Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone: Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.
Reach, Angus B. (Angus Bethune)
Agriculture -- France; France -- Description and travel
the Dreary Domains of Desolation;" and what comfort was it--soaked,
sodden, shivering, teeth chattering--to hear Martin proclaim, about once
in five minutes, that the weather would clear up at the next turn of the
road? The dreary day remains, cold and clammy, a fog-bank looming in my
memory ever since. I believe I saw the _établissment_ of Eaux Chaudes;
at least, there were big drenched houses, with shutters up, like
dead-lights, and closed doors, and mud around them, like water round the
ark. They looked like dismal county hospitals, with all the patients
dead except the madmen, who might be enjoying the weather and the
situation; or like gaols, with all the prisoners hung, and the turnkeys
starved at the cell doors for lack of fees. I remember hearing a doleful
voice, like that of Priam's curtain drawer, asking me if I wouldn't get
out of the vehicle; but to move was hideous discomfort, bringing new wet
surfaces into contact with the skin; so I croaked out, "No, no;
back--back to the fire at Laruns." And so honest grey, all in a steam,
splashed round through the mud; and back we went as we had come--rain,
rain, rain, pitiless, hopeless rain--the fog hanging like a grey winding
sheet above us--the zenith like a pall above that, leaden and drear, as
on a Boothia Felix Christmas Day.
There was nothing for it but the fireside. The very _douaniers_ had
abandoned the street--the pigs had retreated--the donkeys brayed at
intervals from their ground-floor parlours; and only the maniac geese
sat on one leg, croaking, to be rained on, and the marble fountain, so
pretty yester-evening in a gleam of sunshine, spouted away, bringing
"coals to Newcastle," with an insane perseverance which it made me sad
to contemplate. Dinner was ordered as soon as it could be got ready; we
felt it was the last resource. I fortunately had a change of clothes.
Martin had not; but he retired for awhile, and reappeared in a home-spun
coat and trowsers, six inches too long for him, which he was fain to
hold up, to the enormous triumph and delight of Jeanne. At length, then,
that neat-handed Phillis announced dinner.
"Stay a moment!" exclaimed Martin; "I am just going to see whether it is
likely to clear up."
Out he went into the mud, and returned with the announcement that it
would be summer weather in five minutes; he knew, by some particular
movement of the mist. But poor Martin's weather predictions had ceased
to command any credit; and the peasants around the fire shrugged their
shoulders and laughed. The dinner passed off like a funeral feast. I
looked upon the Place--still a puddle, and every moment getting deeper.
No songs--no jodling choruses to-night, maidens of Laruns!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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