Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
=Moss Gill=, on Scafell, is the next gully on the east or _Mickledoor_
side of _Steep Gill_. The name _Sweep Gill_ ('from the probable
profession of the future first climber of its extraordinary vertical
chimneys') was suggested for it by Mr. Gilson shortly after its
discovery, but that name has been entirely superseded. The first mention
of it in the Wastdale Head book is a note by the present writer in June
1889, recommending it to any one in search of a new and difficult
climb. His party on that occasion was repulsed after reaching the great
blocks, which have only been passed since by the aid of the artificial
step subsequently cut in the rock. It was tried again a fortnight later
by a party under Mr. R.C. Gilson, which got very nearly, but not quite
as far. Two days later the same party explored the gill from above and
descended in it for a considerable distance. It was not, however, till
three and a half years later, at Christmas, 1892, that the climb was
accomplished by Dr. J.N. Collie, G. Hastings, and J.W. Robinson, and
their account of it is:
[Illustration: MOSS GILL AND STEEP GILL
A, _Moss Gill_ (Collie's exit); B, _Moss Gill_ (Collier's exit):
C, Top of _Steep Gill_. Just below the point to which A and B converge
is the artificial step.]
'The chief points in this climb are, First--to begin on the rock wall to
the right of the foot of the gill and not in the very foot of the
chimney itself, then enter the gill just below the first great pitch,
which may be turned by climbing the wall on the right hand on to a grass
ledge of considerable size, called the "_Tennis Court_"; enter the gill
from here again, and pass into the cavern under the great boulder.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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