Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
'We found,' says Dr. Collie, 'that below the great slab which formed the
roof, another smaller one was jammed in the gully, which, stretching
across from side to side, formed the top of a great doorway. Under this
we passed and clambered up on to the top of it. Over our heads the great
rock roof stretched some distance over the gill. Our only chance was to
traverse straight out along the side of the gill, till one was no longer
overshadowed by the roof above, and then, if possible, climb up the face
of rock and traverse back again above the obstacle into the gill once
more. This was easier to plan than to carry out; absolutely no
hand-hold, and only one little projecting ledge jutting out about a
quarter of an inch and about two inches long to stand on, and six or
eight feet of the rock wall to be traversed. I was asked to try it.
Accordingly, with great deliberation, I stretched out my foot and placed
the edge of my toe on the ledge. Just as I was going to put my weight on
to it, off slipped my toe, and if Hastings had not quickly jerked me
back, I should instantly have been dangling on the end of the rope. But
we were determined not to be beaten. Hastings' ice-axe was next brought
into requisition, and what followed I have no doubt will be severely
criticised by more orthodox mountaineers than ourselves. As it was my
suggestion I must take the blame. _Peccavi! I hacked a step in the
rock_--and it was very hard work. But I should not advise any one to try
and do the same thing with an ordinary axe. Hastings' axe is an
extraordinary one, and was none the worse for the experiment. I then
stepped across the _mauvais pas_, clambered up the rock till I had
reached a spot where a capital hitch could be got over a jutting piece
of rock, and the rest of the party followed. We then climbed out of the
gill on the left, up some interesting slabs of rock. A few days later
the gill was again ascended by a party led by Mr. J. Collier. They did
not follow our track to the left after the overhanging rock had been
passed, but climbed straight up, using a crack which looks impossible
from down below, thus adding an extra piece of splendid climbing to the
expedition.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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