Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
While clearing snow from the more remote portions of the _Collie
traverse_ from the _window_, in search of the third step, the difficulty
of balancing proved too great, and he fell into the gully below. A rope
had been secured round the _window_ and thus prevented his passing
beyond the snow patch on which he fell. The _window_ 'sill,' already
loose, was on the verge of falling, and was therefore pushed over into
the gully. Returning two days later, he found that the two lowest
chimneys in the gill could be taken straight up, and that the simplest
way of reaching Tennis Court Ledge is by 'backing up' the chimney till
the level of the recess in the right-hand face is reached. 'The recess
is near enough to be taken with a stride. It would seem that the Tennis
Court Ledge and traverse back into the gully may be entirely dispensed
with by continuing up the chimney, the small jammed stones being firm
enough to render the necessary assistance. While making these
suggestions concerning small details in the climb, it may be mentioned
that at the _Collie traverse_, which the writer's experience leads him
to think is the most dangerous piece in the gill, an axe may be of much
help to a party. A man fixed on the _window sill_ may press the point of
the axe into a conveniently placed notch in the slab facing him, so that
the lower end of the handle shall supply a firm hand-hold for any one
stretching round the third step.
_Heights calculated by Mr. Jones._
Foot of Gill on Rake's Progress 2,625 ft.
Snow Patch below Tennis Court Ledge 2,805 "
Tennis Court Ledge 2,840 "
Foot of jammed stone pitch 2,870 "
Window in jammed stones 2,895 "
Snow patch above 2,920 "
Top of left-hand exit 3,140 "
Top of Moss Gill proper 3,170 "
It must, however, be borne in mind that these measurements, though
useful for the purposes of comparison, cannot be absolutely correct,
seeing that Scafell itself is only 3,162 ft. high. On February 11
Messrs. Slingsby, Woolley, and R. Williams found the gully very
difficult owing to ice, and recorded an emphatic protest against any
one following their example by attempting it, 'except when the rocks are
dry and quite free from ice.'
On the last day of March Messrs. Brunskill and Gibbs followed, with a
slight improvement, Dr. Collier's route, and made the subjoined
observations, taken apparently with greater care than those by Mr.
Jones:
Foot of Gill at Rake's Progress 2,570 ft.
Snow Patch above jammed stones 2,865 "
Top of Great Chimney or Moss wall 2,965 "
Top of Gill (neck leading to Deep Gill Pisgah) 3,065 "
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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