Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
Only four days after Dr. Collie, a party of five climbers, led by Dr. J.
Collier, made the second ascent of Moss Gill. The description given by
their precursors was of great assistance, and except that the gill was
entered much lower, the same line was followed up to the traverse from
the great boulder. Here, instead of climbing out to the sky line on the
left side, the ascent of the gill itself was completed by climbing the
vertical moss-grown wall on the right. This part was entirely new, and
Dr. Collier's note of his variation, or we may say correction, for his
climb is the more direct of the two, is that the ascent of the wall was
made by using the cleft of the gill for about 15 ft., when a resting
place was reached. Above this point they climbed about 15 ft., and then
traversed out on the face of the wall for about 8 ft. by some ledges
which afforded just sufficient hold. They then ascended vertically about
6 or 8 ft., re-entering the cleft above a small platform of jammed
stones ('Sentry Box'). This gave a starting-point for the completion of
the ascent, which was made by climbing out on to the face of the wall to
enable the jammed stones at the top of the pitch to be turned. These
last stones did not appear to be secure and were avoided. From this
point the gill continues upward at an easy slope, with one pitch of
about 15 ft. to the back of the small summit on the left of _Deep Gill_.
Two days later the ascent was repeated by Dr. Collier in company with
Professor H.B. Dixon and the late Professor A.M. Marshall, the latter
of whom inserted in the Climbers' book a remarkably bold and effective
outline sketch of the gill, with explanatory notes. Speaking of the
climb, he said that Mr. Collier led throughout, and that the success of
the climb was due entirely to him. The climb is a very fine one, and,
except for the leader, is entirely free from danger. At the very awkward
return from Tennis Court Ledge into the gully, the leader can by a short
traverse fix himself directly above the rest of the party. During the
traverse from the 'window' the leader can fix the rope over the
'belaying-pin.' In the great chimney the _Sentry Box_ is a place of
absolute safety. The climb is difficult, but no part of the chimney is
harder than the short rock face leading up to Tennis Court Ledge, and
the most awkward traverse (if covered with snow) is the one from Tennis
Court Ledge back into the gully. For a party of three 80 ft. of rope
would be enough; 100 ft. perhaps better. On January 9, 1893, Mr. O.G.
Jones attacked this formidable climb entirely by himself, following Mr.
Collier's route up to the foot of the Great Chimney, and then Mr.
Hastings' exit to the left. Heavy snow had fallen since the previous
ascents and the climb appeared to be exceedingly difficult. Almost every
hold had to be cleared of snow; essential precautions rendered the climb
of five hours' duration, and it was not completed till after dark (5.45
p.m.).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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