Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
=Pavey Ark=, one of the Langdale Pikes, is easily reached in
three-quarters of an hour from Dungeon Gill. On it will be found some
splendid climbing, including the _Big Gully_, the _Little Gully_,
_Jack's Rake_ (q.v.), and many minor points of interest. The two chief
gullies stand on either side of a buttress of rock, the top of which
forms a tooth on the sky line. The _Little Gully_ is on the south side
of it, and is V-shaped, giving a very straightforward but pleasant
climb. But the _Great Gully_ has two considerable difficulties, one low
down and the other near the top. The lower is caused by a huge block
covering a considerable cavern. The way is either right through the
cavern and out again through a narrow hole, or up a high grassy bank on
the right hand. In either case a narrow place is reached, walled in
between the big block and a smaller one on the right hand. Here the
difficulty is that the walls nearly meet towards the top, so that it is
necessary, in order to get room for the head, to go rather 'outside.'
However, a second man with a rope can hold the leader very securely, and
a piece of rock having come away, the headroom is much more commodious
than it used to be. Just below the level of _Jack's Rake_ there are some
very 'brant and slape' inclines of wet or muddy rock, which most people
consider the worst part of the climb. There is very little hold, and
what there is was on the occasion of the first ascent lubricated by a
film of fine mud. On reaching _Jack's Rake_ several variations may be
made, and straight ahead there is a very neat little chimney. These
upper rocks are of splendid gripping quality; rough as a cow's tongue,
it would be quite difficult to make a slip on them. The Big Gully was
climbed by the writer in the summer of 1882, and the small one in June
1886. In March 1887 Mr. Slingsby made a note about the former in the
Wastdale Head book. He says that it took his party two hours and forty
minutes, but his estimate of the height of the gully at 1,300 ft. is
more than double of the truth, and must be due to a slip of the pen.
[Illustration: PAVEY ARK (NEAR VIEW)
A, Narrow gully; B, Big gully; C, D, Smaller gullies; E, Wide scree
gully. From the foot of E to A runs _Jack's Rake_.]
In the book at Millbeck there is a note by the same distinguished
climber, dated May 30, 1887, in which he records an ascent of this gully
made by Miss Mabel Hastings, and gives the height of it as 600 or 650
ft.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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