Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
=Scafell= (3,162 ft.) presents some fine rocks to Eskdale, but the
grandest rocks, both to look at and to climb, are towards _Mickledoor_.
As a climbing-ground it is perhaps even more popular than the _Pillar_,
especially in winter. In consequence of this the ground has been gone
over very closely by climbers of exceptional skill, and climbing of a
somewhat desperate character has occasionally been indulged in. This
applies mainly to the west side of Mickledoor. The other side is easier,
and has long been more or less well known.
Mr. Green says of it: 'The crags on the south-west [of Mickledoor],
though seeming frightfully to oppose all passage, have been ascended as
the readiest way to the top of Scafell, and, amongst other adventurers,
by Mr. Thomas Tyson, of Wastdale Head, and Mr. Towers, of Toes [in
Eskdale]; but Messrs. Ottley and Birkett contented themselves by
proceeding for some distance in the direction of Eskdale, to a deep
fissure, through which they scrambled to the top of Scafell.'
It might be thought that this 'fissure' was 'Mickledoor Chimney,' but
it is more likely that it was another and easier gully a good way
farther down.
Mr. Herman Prior's excellent 'Pedestrian Guide' (3rd edition, p. 194)
has a very clear and accurate account of it from the pen of Mr. C.W.
Dymond, who visited it about 1869, and another in Mr. C.N. Williamson's
second article in _All the Year Round_ for November 8, 1884; and in the
local press scores of descriptions have appeared.
[Illustration: SCAFELL CRAGS
A, Top of _Broad Stand_; B, _Pisgah_; C, _Scafell Pillar_;
D, Head of _Deep Gill_.]
The beginning of the climb is very easily overlooked by a stranger,
being just a vertical slit about eighteen inches wide, by means of which
it is easy to walk three or four yards straight into the mountain. It
will be found by descending the Eskdale slope from Mickledoor ridge for
twenty-one yards, and disregarding a much more promising point which
presents itself midway and is noticed both by Professor Tyndall and Mr.
Dymond. The floor of the proper 'adit' rises slightly towards the inner
end, and consequently allows an easy exit to be made on the left-hand
side. From this point three large steps in the rock, each 7 ft. to 10
ft. high have to be mounted, and many will be reminded of the ascent of
the Great Pyramid. What builders call the 'riser' of each step is
vertical, but the 'tread' of the two upper ones becomes very steep and
smooth, and when there is ice about it, this is the chief danger of the
climb. If a fall took place it would probably be to the left hand, in
which direction the rock is much planed away, and forms a steep and
continuous slope almost to the foot of the Mickledoor Chimney.
[Illustration: PLAN OF SCAFELL
A, _Broad Stand_; B, _Mickledoor Ridge_; C, _Scafell Pillar_;
D, _Lord's Rake_; F, _Pikes Crag_; G, _Deep Gill_.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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