Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
We lingered for a long time on the summit; but in a land where, at
that time of year, night never comes, what need was there to hurry?
The extraordinary atmospheric colours, the ever-changing forms of the
clouds, and the slowly slanting rays of the sun, flashing first on one
peak and then on another, produced a wonderful picture. Also it was the
first time that I had been able to master the complicated geography of
the district, and the peaks Store Trold Tind, Svartsund Tind, Isvand
Tind, and others that my friends had climbed when they were last camped
by the Raftsund, were pointed out to me. No icy wind shrilled across
the mountains, darkness would not visit this land for many days yet; to
hasten would have been as foolish as it was unnecessary.
After our victory over Higraf Tind came the deluge; for three nights
and days the heavens were opened and the rains descended. Had it
not been for strenuous efforts on our part in trench digging, our
camp would have been bodily washed into the fjord. On one morning an
aluminium pan out in the open served as an amateur rain-gauge; in
three hours about three inches of water were registered, proving that
Lofoten can easily compete with our Atlantic coast as regards rainfall.
On the return of fine weather we determined to attack Rulten. In our
boat we rowed to his base, landing in a small bay named Flaeskvik. The
lower slopes of the mountain were very steep, and the usual climbing
from ledge to ledge and up gullies had to be resorted to.
After a toilsome climb, for the day was moist and warm, we finally
emerged on to the true south-west arête, having discovered on our way
up a most remarkable window in one of the ridges.
The difficulties now began, for the ridge at once steepened; moreover,
in slimness it almost resembled the Grépon. I tried to climb straight
up the ridge, but perpendicular slabs, with only small cracks in
them, barred the way. To be entirely outside the mountain, when in a
peculiarly difficult place, is by no means pleasant. The imagination
is far less troubled with ideas of what might happen should one fall,
when the extreme steepness is partially hidden from one's view in the
privacy of a rock chimney.
Baffled in my attempt to make a direct ascent, I looked to the left for
some convenient traverse. There was none; vertical slabs, many hundreds
of feet high, entirely stopped the way. To the right hand a ledge was
found which led for a short distance along the side of the mountain,
but smooth rocks, bending over into space, brought my investigations
there also to an abrupt conclusion. It might have been possible from
the end of this traverse to climb upwards on to the ridge, but later
we saw, on our return journey, that should we have surmounted this
difficulty, further along the sky-line more than one gap would almost
certainly have prevented our reaching the top. The point where we
stopped was below 3000 feet, therefore there was at least 800 feet more
of the mountain to climb.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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