Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
The wild and beautiful scenery of the Island of Skye does not seem to
have made any impression on Johnson, and he leaves with no regret,
merely admitting, that he has 'many pictures in his mind which he
could not have had without his journey,' and that these pictures 'will
serve later for pleasing topics of conversation.' What these pictures
were he does not say, but they probably had little to do with what
we now call the beauties of the Highlands; for he mentions that he
found little entertainment in the wildernesses of the Hebrides, the
universal barrenness oppressed him, and he points out that 'in those
countries you are not to suppose that you shall find villages or
enclosures. The traveller wanders through a naked desert, gratified
sometimes but rarely with sight of cows, and now and then finds heaps
of loose stones and turf in a cavity between the rocks, where a being,
born with all those powers which education expands, and all those
sensations which culture refines, is condemned to shelter itself from
the wind and the rain.' Also, that 'a walk upon ploughed fields in
England is a dance upon carpets, compared to the toilsome drudgery of
wandering in Skie.' But it is not surprising that Johnson at the age
of sixty-four looked upon hilly country with aversion--the mountains
interfered with his convenience. He only mentions the hills in Skye
once. 'Here are mountains that I should once have climbed,' he writes
to his friend Mrs. Thale; 'but to climb steeps is now very laborious,
and to descend them dangerous.' No doubt at the Doctor's age he was
right; still we feel somewhat disappointed that during his stay at
Talisker, he was apparently unconscious of the Coolin, and we receive
but small consolation from his elegant epistolary communications, when
they tell us instead, that he was gratified sometimes but rarely with
sight of cows, and that Mr. Boswell was affected almost to tears by the
illustrious ruins at Iona.
[Illustration: The Coolin.]
All this shows us, how the attitude of people towards the wilds of the
Highlands has become completely changed in one century, for Johnson
was not in any way peculiar in his ideas. Look where we will in the
literature of that time, we find the same sentiments. Pennant, who
visited Skye the year before Dr. Johnson, describes the Coolin as 'a
savage series of rude mountains,' whilst Blaven, 'affects him with
astonishment.' Thirty years later the only natural objects in the
island that interested Forsyth, at least so far as one can judge
from what he writes in _The Beauties of Scotland_, were 'an obelisk
of uncommon magnitude' in the parish of Snizort, (probably the Storr
Rock,) and a waterfall and sea cave near Portree.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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