Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
or lazily spent a whole day on the sand beaches of Arisaig point,
gazing, towards Rum and Skye lying light blue on the horizon, and
across a sea brilliant in colour as the Mediterranean amongst the
Ionian islands; or lingered at the head of Loch Coruisk till the last
pale light has faded out of the heavens behind Sgurr Alasdair, and only
the murmur of the streams breaks the stillness of the night air--those
who have thus seen the Coolin will know that they are beautiful. But
the fascination that these mountains exercise over those that know
them well is manifold; there are more pleasures that the Coolin can
offer than those of being merely very beautiful. For the mountaineer
who wanders in the heart of this marvellous mountain land there are
rock climbs without end. He can spend hour after hour exploring the
corries, or threading the intricacies of the narrow rock edges that
form so large a part of the sky-line. From the summits he can watch
the mists sweeping up from below, and hurrying over the bealachs in
tumbled masses of vapour, or he can dreamily follow the white sails of
the boats, far out to sea, as they slowly make for the outer islands;
then clambering down the precipitous faces he can repose in some
sheltered nook and listen to the sound of a burn, perhaps a thousand
feet below, echoed across from the sheer walls of rock on the other
side of the corrie; there is always something new to interest him--it
may be a gully that requires the utmost of his skill as a mountaineer,
or it may be a view of hill, moor, and loch backed by the Atlantic and
the far-off isles of the western sea. Nowhere in the British Islands
are there any rock climbs to be compared with those in Skye, measure
them by what standard you will--length, variety, or difficulty. Should
any one doubt this, let him some fine morning walk up from the head of
Coruisk to the rocky slabs at the foot of Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh. There
he will see the bare grey rocks rising out from the heather not 500
feet above the level of the loch, and there walls, ridges, and towers
of weather-worn gabbro stretch with hardly a break to the summit of
the mountain, 2800 feet above him. Measured on the map, it is but half
a mile, but that half mile will tax his muscles; he must climb up
gullies that the mountain torrents have worn out of the precipices,
and over slabs of rock sloping down into space at an angle that makes
handhold necessary as well as foothold; he must creep out round edges
on to the faces of perpendicular cliffs, only to find that after all
the perpendicular cliff itself must be scaled before he can win back
again to the ridge that is to lead him to the topmost peak. There are
many such climbs in the Coolin. The pinnacles of Sgurr nan Gillean, the
four tops of Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, and the ridge from Sgurr Dearg to Sgurr
Dubh, are well known, but the face climbs have been neglected. The face
of Sgurr a'Mhadaidh from Tairneilear, the face of Sgurr Alasdair from
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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