Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
To the mountaineer who makes his way from Seascale or from Drigg to
Wastdale Head, the Cumberland hills with their long, rolling outlines,
their flanks concealed by superincumbent soil and vegetation, do not
seem to promise well as far as rock climbing is concerned. Only here
and there do the ridges break into rocky precipices; nowhere is seen
the rugged grandeur of the Highlands of Scotland; such valleys as
Glencoe with its rock-built walls, or the splintered summits of the
Coolin, or of An Teallach, do not exist. Yet the rock-climber who
stops at the inn at the head of Wastdale may spend weeks before he
has exhausted the district. He will be lucky indeed, and a first-rate
climber to boot, if he has done the best of the climbs without further
aid than that afforded by what the mountaineer calls the 'moral'
support of the rope. Once upon a time a celebrated climber of Alpine
repute came to Wastdale for the first, alas! also for the last time.
'Climbing in the Caucasus,' Mummery said, 'was easy and safe; in the
Alps too it was usually easy and safe, though sometimes difficult;
but climbing as practised at Wastdale Head was both difficult and
dangerous.'
The great delight of the climber in the Cumberland hills is in gullies
or 'ghylls,' and no wonder, for there are endless gullies both great
and small, the climbs in which vary with the state of the weather,
and may be easy or difficult, wet or dry, or dirty, according to
circumstances. Then again, the climber must have a perfect contempt for
streams, and especially waterfalls, for the ascent of a perpendicular
'pitch' through a delightfully cold and invigorating shower bath
will be one of his earliest experiences. But there are plenty of
other climbs besides those in ghylls. Hidden away in the recesses of
the hills are sharp and jagged pinnacles of hard porphyritic rock,
precipices smooth, flawless, and sometimes overhanging, whose firm grey
bastions have withstood the storms of ages; whilst only at their feet,
where lie the remnants which have yielded, flake by flake, from the
massive buttresses above, does the ruin proclaim that the hand of time
carves the rocks on the mountain-side as well as the valleys below.
This was written several years ago, before all the rock problems, and
also before all their variations, had been worked out. When first I
visited Wastdale Head it was at Christmas time. I knew there was a
pinnacle of rock on Great Gable, also that another rock climb could
be obtained on the Pillar mountain--that was all. Mr. Jones had never
visited Wastdale, and his work was unwritten. The entries in the
climbers' book at the inn were only just begun.
W. P. Haskett Smith, J. W. Robinson, C. Slingsby, and G. Hastings
were the pioneers of those days; they first really drew the attention
of mountaineers to the fact that rock climbing of every degree of
difficulty could be indulged in amongst the hills that surrounded the
head of Wastdale.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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