Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
But it is the rock escarpment at the back of the corrie that fascinates
their gaze. As the mists begin to clear one by one, they suggest climbs
on its face, for there are 1250 feet of bare rock in front of them,
broken up into three distinct buttresses with two splendid gullies
dividing them. At last they choose the right-hand gully, and, having
roped themselves, proceed to cut steps up the steep snow that has
drifted into it and obliterated any perpendicular pitches there may
be. I am sorry that there are no perpendicular pitches--it is most
unfortunate; for I should like to see that party performing all these
daring feats so well known to, and beloved by, the professional rock
climber, 'How things began to look rather blue.' 'How for a minute or
two one of the party remained spread-eagled on the face of a cliff
almost despairing of getting up, the desired crack being a good two
feet out of reach, till, with a supreme effort, he was propelled from
below by a sudden and powerful jerk, his outstretched fingers seize the
desired crack.' Nor can I describe how 'the heavy man of the party, his
finger tips playing upon the face of the cliff with the delicacy of
touch of a professional pianist, his every movement suggestive of the
bounding lightness of the airy thistle-down,' followed. No, I am sorry
I have no such wildly exciting adventures to relate, nor such poetical
fancies wherewith to eke out a plain story. I see that party merely
climbing up that gully, in a most uninteresting yet simple manner, by
cutting steps. They come to where it ends against a perpendicular and
overhanging cliff at least a couple of hundred feet high. Only 200
feet, but higher they cannot go, for none of the party are sufficiently
muscular to propel the leader with a jerk upwards that paltry 200 feet.
Therefore they climb out to their left, along a narrow and somewhat
broken ledge, on to the middle buttress, where a place is found large
enough for them all to sit down. They gaze upwards at the last 300
feet that separate them from the summit, but it is steep, very steep,
'A.P.'[Q] Also, it is late in the afternoon; so they comfort themselves
by building a cairn, and eating all these delicious things that are
so good on a mountain-side--meat sandwiches which have remained from
lunch, and taste so full of mustard and so delightfully dry; old, old
prunes encrusted with all kinds of additional nutriment from the bottom
of some one's pocket; a much-worn stick of chocolate, or perhaps an
acidulated drop--on such fare does the hardy mountaineer feed. I see
them once more in the gully, but they descend more rapidly than they
climbed up it, for the more daring of the party glissade down the lower
part, and so home.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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