Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain RangesCollie, Norman
History
Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges
Collie, Norman
Himalaya Mountains; Mountaineering
Accordingly, after some consultation, Hastings generously agreed to
sacrifice himself and trudge back to our camp in the Rupal nullah and
thence to Astor, not only with the hope of bringing back with him all
the luxuries we had weeks before ordered from Srinagar, but also with
the intention of procuring sheep, flour, rice, and tea from Astor. At
the same time he hoped to shorten to a great extent the journey to
the Mazeno by making a new and direct pass over into the Lubar nullah
immediately south of our camp. In the meantime Mummery and I were to
stay behind in the Diamirai nullah and push provisions up the face of
Nanga Parbat as fast as we could.
Just south of our camp rose a snow peak, about 19,000 feet, which we
have called the Diamirai peak. On July 24, in crossing the pass from
the Diamirai over to the Lubar glacier, we had left it on our right. It
is not on the main ridge of Nanga Parbat, but on a side spur running
to the westward. Camped as we were at its very foot, and looking on
it as but a single day's climb, we determined to try to ascend it,
whilst we waited for the snow to clear off the rocks on Nanga Parbat.
By this time we had learned that the ascent of any peak 20,000 feet
high was a laborious undertaking. At first we had talked about the
'twenty thousanders' somewhat contemptuously, and not without reason,
for our hopes were fixed on Nanga Parbat, 26,629 feet; surely if a
mountain of that height were possible, those whose summits were 7000
feet lower ought to be simplicity itself. In fact, we imagined that, as
far as difficulty was concerned, they should stand somewhat in the same
proportion to each other as an ascent of Mont Blanc to a climb up the
Brévent from Chamounix during the springtime before all the snow has
melted.
[Illustration: _The Diamirai Peak from the Red Pass._]
Unfortunately they were not quite so easy as we should have liked; not
only did they involve an ascent from the camp of 7000 to 8000 feet, but
also a considerable amount of the climbing under a pressure of about
half an atmosphere. Then the interminable ice slopes, which in the
Nanga Parbat district are very much more common than in the Alps, meant
many hours of step-cutting, and the softened state of the snow directly
after the sun had shone on it added considerably to our labour. Besides
these drawbacks, which render the ascent of a mountain 20,000 feet high
not altogether easy, the utter confusion and wearisome monotony of the
stony and rugged hill-sides between the valley and the snow-line must
not be forgotten.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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